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Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Page 6

Day 16 - Sunday, 10 November 2019

Ice capades on magic mountain

Climbing Mount Zao without the cable car

There will be no crater lake photo.
There will be lots of photos of ice, lots and lots of ice.
It is hard to photograph the wind, but I think you will see that it was very windy.

Today I climbed from Zao Onsen to the summit of Mount Zao up the forest path and across the ice, before descending back down again through the ski fields which I had completely to myself.
In fact I had both the ski fields and the forest path to myself. Only once I got above the top cable car station did I see any other people. These people were in arctic expedition gear and plodding along very slowly. My tactic was to wear minimal gear and plod along at great speed, so as not to freeze.

It probably was not as cold as that time I nearly froze to death on a mountain in Hokkaido, but it was still uncomfortably cold. Too cold to mess about taking a lot of photos. Too cold to even take a drink of water once above the ice line as I shall call it.
At times it was very hard to see where I was going, especially once my eyebrows froze. I wish I could have taken a photo of that, I have enormous eyebrows, they hold a lot of ice.

The weather actually looked good most of the way up, and all of the way down, and the pictures wont really show Mount Zao at all, as its hidden behind the icy peaks you can see. When I was on the actual summit it was just a sea of white.
I also wonder if the crater lake creates fog, as it is full of hot volcanic water. That would not explain the wind though, below the peak, no wind at all, once above the ice line, hard to stand up at all. Thankfully the ice was not slippery, It actually seemed to provide grip under foot, until mud froze solid to the bottom of my shoes. I thought the base of my feet had gone numb and I couldnt feel the ground under me any more, but no, I was walking on blocks of icy mud.

Anyway, it was a fun day, thats enough about the ice and weather until I talk more about the ice and weather in the pics below.

Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - The bus leaves from platform 1 at Yamagata station. It is more of a coach than a bus. 1000 yen each way. I had no issue getting a seat as you can see.

The bus leaves from platform 1 at Yamagata station. It is more of a coach than a bus. 1000 yen each way. I had no issue getting a seat as you can see. Nearly everyone else likes to sit right at the front. This bus has the fold down aisle seats in case they have a lot of passengers.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - The drive from the city to the Onsen town is quite spectacular. Here is a big Torii gate a restaurant has built to attract tourists.

The drive from the city to the Onsen town is quite spectacular. Here is a big Torii gate a restaurant has built to attract tourists.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - I was in town too early for much to be open. The Lawson convenience store was open, I stocked up on calorie mate and pocari sweat from there.

I was in town too early for much to be open. The Lawson convenience store was open, I stocked up on calorie mate and pocari sweat from there.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - The town is quite large, this is not really the main hot springs bit, its more the main skiing bit.

The town is quite large, this is not really the main hot springs bit, its more the main skiing bit.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - My hiking course started from about here. Today I followed a map using the Japanese social hiking app thing, Yamap. It caches a jpg to your phone so t

My hiking course started from about here. Today I followed a map using the Japanese social hiking app thing, Yamap. It caches a jpg to your phone so that it still works while out of data range.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Sulphur gas was rising out of the ground in many places. Some times strange gases come out of the ground and people die.

Sulphur gas was rising out of the ground in many places. Some times strange gases come out of the ground and people die.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - I was actually a bit surprised my path was a secluded forest path. They have left a strip of forest between the ski runs. Although it has been well ma

I was actually a bit surprised my path was a secluded forest path. They have left a strip of forest between the ski runs. Although it has been well maintained, I saw no one else at all until above the top cable car station. Lazy bastards! It was only about 90 minutes and really not that steep.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - This fallen tree branch appears to have collapsed under the weight of sea shells. I pulled a heap of them off and gave them to a little girl and now s

This fallen tree branch appears to have collapsed under the weight of sea shells. I pulled a heap of them off and gave them to a little girl and now she sells sea shells as shes coming round the mountain.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - If you squint you can see an ice covered peak with a ropeway station. Thats a different mountain though.

If you squint you can see an ice covered peak with a ropeway station. Thats a different mountain though.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - My feet got wet! There were a few streams to cross. I also saw a huge Serow, much bigger than the last two I saw on previous trips. Unfortunately he r

My feet got wet! There were a few streams to cross. I also saw a huge Serow, much bigger than the last two I saw on previous trips. Unfortunately he ran off before I could take a photo.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Nice path. I clapped a few times to alert the bears I was on my way and that they should take up a strategic attack position.

Nice path. I clapped a few times to alert the bears I was on my way and that they should take up a strategic attack position.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - The forest hiking path crossed a few ski runs. They looked interesting. So interesting I ran down them later as you shall see.

The forest hiking path crossed a few ski runs. They looked interesting. So interesting I ran down them later as you shall see.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Still below the cloud here, there is the town of Zao Onsen below. At this point I was still thinking when I got up to the summit area there would be b

Still below the cloud here, there is the town of Zao Onsen below. At this point I was still thinking when I got up to the summit area there would be blue sky. Wrong.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Sometimes the path became boulders. It was just after this photo that it was fortunate there were no other people, as I somehow dislodged a boulder th

Sometimes the path became boulders. It was just after this photo that it was fortunate there were no other people, as I somehow dislodged a boulder that tumbled down the hill. That would have been really bad news for anyone behind me.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Here is the usual, required proof that I avoided the cable car. I am far too cheap for that. And actually it is not a particularly strenuous hike. Cer

Here is the usual, required proof that I avoided the cable car. I am far too cheap for that. And actually it is not a particularly strenuous hike. Certainly not compared to Mount Tanigawa.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Time to cross another ski run. Almost in the cloud.

Time to cross another ski run. Almost in the cloud.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - The path in places at this point became very developed. Probably for people to descend from the cable car and see the snow monsters. 'Snow monsters' i

The path in places at this point became very developed. Probably for people to descend from the cable car and see the snow monsters. 'Snow monsters' is what becomes of these trees when they get completely covered in snow and ice. That only happens late in the season, probably March / April.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Ice was coming.

Ice was coming.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - I realised that it was soon going to be cold, so I messed about taking silly head shots at this point rather than later when it would be too cold.

I realised that it was soon going to be cold, so I messed about taking silly head shots at this point rather than later when it would be too cold.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Getting quite icy, but you can still see the path is dirt at this point.

Getting quite icy, but you can still see the path is dirt at this point.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Further up the mountain, lots of ice. But I was still in for a surprise once I got to the summit ridge area.

Further up the mountain, lots of ice. But I was still in for a surprise once I got to the summit ridge area.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - The path became icy, but like I said earlier, it was never slippery.

The path became icy, but like I said earlier, it was never slippery.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - It was just as well it was not slippery, as this part of the path was a very narrow trail along a steep hill. I dont think I actually would have plumm

It was just as well it was not slippery, as this part of the path was a very narrow trail along a steep hill. I dont think I actually would have plummeted if I slid off, it would have been more a fun controlled slide down. Still, I did not want to find out. I suspect the real path had disappeared in a recent season in an avalanche.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Then I popped out onto the ridge to the summit. It was amazingly windy. This little person froze to death.

Then I popped out onto the ridge to the summit. It was amazingly windy. This little person froze to death.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - That is just a pole, with ice hanging off it. Very interesting. Such wind!

That is just a pole, with ice hanging off it. Very interesting. Such wind!


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - The poles were very useful in near white out conditions.

The poles were very useful in near white out conditions.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Very near the summit, the sun almost came out. It was too cold to hang around, and the actual lake is a few hundred metres below, and that direction w

Very near the summit, the sun almost came out. It was too cold to hang around, and the actual lake is a few hundred metres below, and that direction was just a sea of fog. I think it probably still is. I hope it is. I hope it didnt clear up minutes after I left. I could not stand up properly on the actual summit to take a photo.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Time to start retracing my steps. Quickly. To warmth.

Time to start retracing my steps. Quickly. To warmth.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - The cloud was higher than before on the way down, which afforded me a great view.

The cloud was higher than before on the way down, which afforded me a great view.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Here is one of the ski paths I crossed earlier. It was at this point I decided to run down all the ski paths rather than following the same forest tra

Here is one of the ski paths I crossed earlier. It was at this point I decided to run down all the ski paths rather than following the same forest trail I used on the way up.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - There is a whole network of connected ski trails. Lots of ropeways but these were not operating yet. There was no one else at all on the side of the m

There is a whole network of connected ski trails. Lots of ropeways but these were not operating yet. There was no one else at all on the side of the mountain. Quite surreal.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - A view across the valley.

A view across the valley.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - I was still quite high at this point, but warm again, allowing me to take too many photos while running down ski slopes.

I was still quite high at this point, but warm again, allowing me to take too many photos while running down ski slopes.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Here, have another. Its certainly a great view from here, over half way down!

Here, have another. Its certainly a great view from here, over half way down!


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Still following ski trails, without much of a plan, I just generally headed down whichever one seemed to head closer to the town.

Still following ski trails, without much of a plan, I just generally headed down whichever one seemed to head closer to the town.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Almost there. That icy peak is not Zao. Mount Zao is to the right and behind that area. I was hoping it was still fogged in!

Almost there. That icy peak is not Zao. Mount Zao is to the right and behind that area. I was hoping it was still fogged in!


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - And then I got back to the road, and this cat came over, and flopped onto my shoes and demanded I give him a good scratch.

And then I got back to the road, and this cat came over, and flopped onto my shoes and demanded I give him a good scratch.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - His friend watched on with great envy.

His friend watched on with great envy.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Soon after I was back at Zao Onsen, these people are drying daikon on their balcony. They thought it was weird I was taking a photo of their window. T

Soon after I was back at Zao Onsen, these people are drying daikon on their balcony. They thought it was weird I was taking a photo of their window. They probably went and called the police.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - It does not show up too well in the photo, but theres a lot of noxious sulphur gas coming up out of here. It was also coming out of grates in the road

It does not show up too well in the photo, but theres a lot of noxious sulphur gas coming up out of here. It was also coming out of grates in the roads. I still smell of sulphur now. More so than usual. Sorry spellchecker, I refuse to write SULFUR.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - I had 30 minutes until the bus, time to run up the steps to the shrine.

I had 30 minutes until the bus, time to run up the steps to the shrine.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Here is a view of the Onsen area. Best I could do with limited time.

Here is a view of the Onsen area. Best I could do with limited time.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - There are lots of public spots to soak your feet. There is also apparently, A MIXED BATH!!!! Hidden in the mountains! Perverts from around the world t

There are lots of public spots to soak your feet. There is also apparently, A MIXED BATH!!!! Hidden in the mountains! Perverts from around the world travel to go there. There is talk of closing it because of this. People have been caught filming morally questionable movies in the outdoor mixed bath!


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Last picture of the day, from the bus window. I was thrilled to find out I could open my bus window. The other people on the bus enjoying the 30+ cels

Last picture of the day, from the bus window. I was thrilled to find out I could open my bus window. The other people on the bus enjoying the 30+ celsius bus air conditioning were not thrilled.


A rare event indeed

Eating pizza in Yamagata

I dont think I have eaten pizza in over 5 years, even though I like it. Tonight that changed.
Generally speaking, I think pizza is the ultimate calorie delivery system, which is great if you want to consume a lot of calories. Its bread, cheese and often salted smoked meats. Delicious. Addictive.
That is the problem. So I just decided to never eat pizza a few years ago. The other thing I never eat is chips or any meal that comes with chips (fries).
Tonight I had no intention of actually eating pizza, I went into an Italian restaurant mindful that I had eaten Japanese food for the last few nights intending to order pasta. However on the menu was a wood fired pizza with lots of fresh tomatoes and no cheese! A healthier pizza perhaps? It was ok, authentic base and sauce. But I dont think I am about to become addicted to pizza.
Thats enough about pizza. Why the hell did I bother typing all that boring stuff out?

Other than that, my main goal tonight was to get my next travel pass that will get me back to Tokyo via Koriyama which is my next stop. This requires my passport. So I headed to the station with my passport and the info on the pass I needed, only to find out the travel agency office that issues passes shuts at 5pm. That is much earlier than anything else ever shuts in Japan! I will have to make a special trip down there tomorrow afternoon.
And actually, quite a lot of Yamagata was shut tonight, Sunday night. Although even though a lot of places were shut, it was still more open and busy than Niigata.

Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Here is Yamagata station. It is not huge but it has a Shinkansen and 3 different local lines.

Here is Yamagata station. It is not huge but it has a Shinkansen and 3 different local lines.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - This is the inside of that big government building I photographed yesterday. There are a few restaurants and a cinema. I think there might also be an

This is the inside of that big government building I photographed yesterday. There are a few restaurants and a cinema. I think there might also be an observation deck, perhaps I shall investigate tomorrow.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - What is this! A train with an Onsen / hot spring / whatever ON THE TRAIN.

What is this! A train with an Onsen / hot spring / whatever ON THE TRAIN.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - The station has a tunnel under it. It is not very popular as there are no escalators like there are to the overpass.

The station has a tunnel under it. It is not very popular as there are no escalators like there are to the overpass.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Now for a couple of exterior shots of little restaurants that were open on a Sunday night where I did not eat because it was mainly ramen (which I had

Now for a couple of exterior shots of little restaurants that were open on a Sunday night where I did not eat because it was mainly ramen (which I had too much of lately) or meat on sticks (which I dont consider a meal).


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Many places that were open only seem to have a 'party plan' menu which involves a huge amount of food and all the beer you can drink in x hours.

Many places that were open only seem to have a 'party plan' menu which involves a huge amount of food and all the beer you can drink in x hours.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - The back alleys were dark and quiet.

The back alleys were dark and quiet.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - And here is my pizza, sans cheese, but with olives capers and tomatoes. I dont eat much meat because not eating meat offsets the carbon from my half w

And here is my pizza, sans cheese, but with olives capers and tomatoes. I dont eat much meat because not eating meat offsets the carbon from my half way around the world flights. Thats how offsetting works isnt it?


There are currently 3 comments - click to add

bobule on 2019-11-10 said:

excellent mountain walk and great photos! really good end to your trip!


jenny on 2019-11-10 said:

Pizza or piisa as they say in Japanese actually looks noice.


adriana on 2019-11-10 said:

So what was the temperature up in the ice? So cold already + wind chill factor.


Day 17 - Monday, 11 November 2019

Repeat visit

Omoshiroyamakogen canyon to Yamadera shrine

I have been here before and done exactly this journey before. Top tip for using my site, click the search thing and click the tag for the name of any place or activity, and you will get just the articles related to that tag. Right now there are 3 articles tagged 'Omoshiroyama'. I have employed the latest in color shading technology to heat map those tags. No one appreciates that at all, ever.

Before I get to the photos, let me recount the train dramas. I boarded the little train to Omoshiroyamakogen (longest station name in Japan), and placed my little running backpack on the seat next to me. The train carriage was less than half full. This is a very small backpack, its designed to have a bladder with water inside it, I ripped that out and usually put 2 x 600ml bottles of water, which just fit. It was currently empty. It is smaller than most handbags.
Now, there were at least 10 other people with bags on the seats, including suitcases, shopping, backpacks. All Japanese people. The guard comes down, I take out my ticket to show him, but no, he yells at me, BAG OFF SEAT! I look around at everyone else with bags on seat. He repeats, BAG OFF SEAT OR GET OFF TRAIN!!! So I put my bag on my lap as the next train was in an hour. He then wandered off and I am sure he said GAIJIN! during his rant to himself and any Japanese person in earshot.

That was train drama #1, now for ongoing drama #2. The JR travel agent office, from where you buy or exchange reservations for train passes, is closed on Sunday and Monday! The only option is to go to Sendai. I never heard of this before, very annoying. I need to buy a JR East Tohoku all areas pass to go to Koriyama tomorrow, then Tokyo 3 days later, than use the remaining 3 days on it for day trips out of Tokyo. This saves me at least $100 compared to buying individual tickets, and is only available to foreign passport holders.
The travel agent office is open tomorrow from 10AM, so I will go there then and hope to get a reservation for a bullet train that leaves soon after. If however I had needed to travel yesterday or today, even if I had pre purchased a Japan Rail pass before leaving Australia, there is nowhere to exchange the reservation for the actual pass in Yamagata on Sunday or Monday.

OK, I took a record amount of photos today, so no more text. A lot of the photos are portrait orientation, so get your scrolling finger ready, you're about to wear out your mouse / touchpad, or more likely phone / tablet screen (80% of my web traffic these days is mobile devices).

I know I said no more text, but I just want to add, this is one of the best easy day trips I know of anywhere in Japan, accessible to all ages of all fitness levels. It can be reached easily from either Yamagata or Sendai, its only about 10km of walking, and approximately 500 stairs to the top of Yamadera.

Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - The light and leaves were not as good as the last time I visited on the 5th of November 2016. Last time was all day blazing sunshine and a week earlie

The light and leaves were not as good as the last time I visited on the 5th of November 2016. Last time was all day blazing sunshine and a week earlier in the season. Despite that, I still think the scenery was fantastic. As you can see, it was sunny when I started.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Beautiful blue sky to get me started.

Beautiful blue sky to get me started.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - I took note of the monkey warning, a nice difference from the usual bear warning.

I took note of the monkey warning, a nice difference from the usual bear warning.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Time to descend into the ravine and get going.

Time to descend into the ravine and get going.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - One of many waterfalls.

One of many waterfalls.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Quite colorful, but not as colorful as 3 years ago.

Quite colorful, but not as colorful as 3 years ago.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Rocks, water, leaves.

Rocks, water, leaves.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - More rocks, water, leaves, I am going to run out of new things to type.

More rocks, water, leaves, I am going to run out of new things to type.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - You can see the path on the right. It is narrow in places but never what I would call dangerous. I am however standing on a badly worn swaying wire an

You can see the path on the right. It is narrow in places but never what I would call dangerous. I am however standing on a badly worn swaying wire and wood plank bridge to take this photo.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Thats a different bridge. Cloud is starting to set in.

Thats a different bridge. Cloud is starting to set in.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Sometimes the water is a bit deeper and blue.

Sometimes the water is a bit deeper and blue.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Another waterfall. This description is useful in case you had no concept of what a waterfall was before I told you.

Another waterfall. This description is useful in case you had no concept of what a waterfall was before I told you.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Same same.

Same same.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Rock with tree growing out of it. I think the best rock of my trip so far was the very green huge one I saw back on a hike near Tokyo a couple of week

Rock with tree growing out of it. I think the best rock of my trip so far was the very green huge one I saw back on a hike near Tokyo a couple of weeks ago. I will keep you updated on my rock of the trip award.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Example of a bridge. The planks on this one look a bit newer.

Example of a bridge. The planks on this one look a bit newer.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - A bit more of the path.

A bit more of the path.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Getting darker. There were a few drops of rain, but somehow I escaped the rain all day, and right now outside hours later, blue sky again.

Getting darker. There were a few drops of rain, but somehow I escaped the rain all day, and right now outside hours later, blue sky again.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Nice path.

Nice path.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - I wonder if a sudden down pour would cause me to drown?

I wonder if a sudden down pour would cause me to drown?


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Sometimes it was fun to stand in the water to take photos.

Sometimes it was fun to stand in the water to take photos.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Nice.

Nice.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Are there many more?

Are there many more?


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Time for me to say the word you read here more than you read anywhere else in your life, this one is SUPERFLUOUS.

Time for me to say the word you read here more than you read anywhere else in your life, this one is SUPERFLUOUS.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - I swear these are not all the same photo repeated.

I swear these are not all the same photo repeated.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Some more big rocks. Now last time I was here there were numerous people with tripods taking serious photos. Today, not a single other person. No one

Some more big rocks. Now last time I was here there were numerous people with tripods taking serious photos. Today, not a single other person. No one else got off at the Omoshiroyamakogen station with me.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Getting near the end now. But they should make it longer, I see no reason why it stops where it does. Probably to stop me from oversharing too many ph

Getting near the end now. But they should make it longer, I see no reason why it stops where it does. Probably to stop me from oversharing too many photos.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Pine trees mark the end.

Pine trees mark the end.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - You cross the stream / river about 10 times, sometimes bridges, sometimes rocks.

You cross the stream / river about 10 times, sometimes bridges, sometimes rocks.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Exit, through the tunnel. The tunnel is very low, you cannot stand up straight.

Exit, through the tunnel. The tunnel is very low, you cannot stand up straight.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - OK, after exiting the canyon, its about a 5km walk to Yamadera, along a very picturesque, very quiet road. The only cars that came were Japan Rail min

OK, after exiting the canyon, its about a 5km walk to Yamadera, along a very picturesque, very quiet road. The only cars that came were Japan Rail mini vans. I was concerned the train was broken down? But occasionally a train did go past on the elevated bridges down in the ravine.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - While sauntering along, I occasionally passed a red tree to gawk at.

While sauntering along, I occasionally passed a red tree to gawk at.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Squint here and you can see a train going past. The timing of the train was not good, minutes later I had a good view of a rail bridge that would have

Squint here and you can see a train going past. The timing of the train was not good, minutes later I had a good view of a rail bridge that would have been a much better photo.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Getting close to Yamadera, also getting very cloudy.

Getting close to Yamadera, also getting very cloudy.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - The little town of Yamadera is all for tourists. Lots of little restaurants, even a flash looking gelati cafe, which had a line of people.

The little town of Yamadera is all for tourists. Lots of little restaurants, even a flash looking gelati cafe, which had a line of people.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - I think this is the main shrine at Yamadera, its at the bottom of the cliff.

I think this is the main shrine at Yamadera, its at the bottom of the cliff.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - I knocked one over and they all tumbled like dominoes. I casually strolled off pretending not to be involved.

I knocked one over and they all tumbled like dominoes. I casually strolled off pretending not to be involved.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - The bell tower marks the start of the staircase up the cliff.

The bell tower marks the start of the staircase up the cliff.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - About half way up the 500 or so steps you start to hit various buildings, and red leaves.

About half way up the 500 or so steps you start to hit various buildings, and red leaves.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - There is a bit of construction or more likely reconstruction going on. I recall this was also the case last time.

There is a bit of construction or more likely reconstruction going on. I recall this was also the case last time.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Here is the view we all came for. Note that old people with walking sticks can make it up the steps.

Here is the view we all came for. Note that old people with walking sticks can make it up the steps.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - The view. Certainly not as good as last time, but different to last time due to the cloud. Still great.

The view. Certainly not as good as last time, but different to last time due to the cloud. Still great.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Looking back towards the cliff face with all the little buildings clinging to it.

Looking back towards the cliff face with all the little buildings clinging to it.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Windowed view.

Windowed view.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Beyond the view spot you can go further up the cliff to the top shrine, but there is not much of a view from the top.

Beyond the view spot you can go further up the cliff to the top shrine, but there is not much of a view from the top.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Local nazi party building.

Local nazi party building.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - I climbed up to where the priests and gift shop owners live. The power lines are unsightly, and all over the place. Everyone tries to take photos with

I climbed up to where the priests and gift shop owners live. The power lines are unsightly, and all over the place. Everyone tries to take photos without them.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - I had to run back down the stairs and get to the station. Trains are not frequent. By the way, buy a paper ticket to go to Omoshiroyamakogen, suica/ic

I had to run back down the stairs and get to the station. Trains are not frequent. By the way, buy a paper ticket to go to Omoshiroyamakogen, suica/icoca will not work, but it will work from Yamadera station. The maps in the stations at Sendai or Yamagata will show you which stations the electronic cards will and will not work at.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Once I got back down, I had time to fight this cat for this leaf. The cat won.

Once I got back down, I had time to fight this cat for this leaf. The cat won.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - The walk to the station is also picturesque.

The walk to the station is also picturesque.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Last time I was here, I took a great photo from this bridge in the late afternoon sun, with lots of people playing in the blue water below. It is not

Last time I was here, I took a great photo from this bridge in the late afternoon sun, with lots of people playing in the blue water below. It is not as nice under cloudy skies.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - The area around the station is also quite nice.

The area around the station is also quite nice.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - And finally, I was on the elevated platform, looking back up the cliff face at all the little buildings in Yamadera. If you made it to the end of all

And finally, I was on the elevated platform, looking back up the cliff face at all the little buildings in Yamadera. If you made it to the end of all these photos, give yourself a pat on the back, or alternatively punch yourself in the face.


Rain the other way

Light rain followed by Ramen in Yamagata

I actually had a plan to go quite a bit further tonight, up a hill and down a street I thought might have a bit of a view of the city lights, however then it started raining, and that was the end of that. The awnings of houses and shops in Yamagata do not offer any protection from rain at all, and of course all the trees have by now been stripped of all their leaves and are now just twigs sticking out of the ground. That would mean even light rain would get me uncomfortably wet.
Therefore soon after setting off in the opposite direction to the last 2 nights, I accepted defeat and headed back to the station area.

I was on the hunt for hot soba, now armed with google lens realtime translate I pointed my phone at a couple of soba places, and all the menu items said chilled soba, boooo.
Then I saw a strange stairwell with 3 signs at its base, so I wandered up. Option 1, expensive barbecue. Option 2, raw cold fish. Option 3, DOKI DOKI RAMEN.

Based on the picture of the house special, I thought Doki Doki meant a pile of bean shoots on top of your ramen, but now that I have searched the term, and seen it used to describe nearly everything, I have discovered it really means the following -

(dokidoki) is a word that mimics the sound of a beating heart. It is used to describe physical/emotional excitement or racing of the heart. It can indicate that someone is thrilled, excited, or nervous.

Hmmm, so there you go. What I can tell you about Doki Doki Ramen is that the little old lady who was cook, waiter, cashier, cleaner and entertainment spoke some amusing English, and started singing Elvis Presley songs. The words sounded familiar, the tune however was non existent, so I wasnt sure, but then she asked me, you like Elvis Presley? I will spare you the Japanese accent typed in text, but I can assure you it was as you would expect.
At this stage she was still preparing my Ramen, so of course I said, I like Elvis! But that lead to trouble, as she asks, which Elvis song do you like best?
I had to think about this for a minute, do I know the name of any Elvis song? All I could come up with was see see rider. So next thing shes in the kitchen confidently singing see see rider over and over to the tune of jingle bells.

The Ramen was great!

Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - After diverting due to rain, I had to find things to photograph, why not convenience stores? Yamagata has the larger variety, with cafe seating and ca

After diverting due to rain, I had to find things to photograph, why not convenience stores? Yamagata has the larger variety, with cafe seating and car parking.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - There are 3 main brands, 7-eleven as shown above, Lawson as shown here, and Family Mart, not pictured. I thought of walking to the Family Mart to comp

There are 3 main brands, 7-eleven as shown above, Lawson as shown here, and Family Mart, not pictured. I thought of walking to the Family Mart to complete this series, but it was raining too much. Niigata also still had Daily Yamazaki, a brand I dont see as much lately?


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - This is the view from the station, down the main street, towards my hotel, in the rain.

This is the view from the station, down the main street, towards my hotel, in the rain.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - ELVIS RAMEN! It was a huge serve, but mainly bean sprouts. Although I feel like I have eaten too much.

ELVIS RAMEN! It was a huge serve, but mainly bean sprouts. Although I feel like I have eaten too much.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - I have seen Filipinos a lot in Yamagata, this is where they work. All of them.

I have seen Filipinos a lot in Yamagata, this is where they work. All of them.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - These things are my favourite snack lately. I think its a nut, coated in green, coated in sugar. The green seems to be flavourless. I am not sure I ca

These things are my favourite snack lately. I think its a nut, coated in green, coated in sugar. The green seems to be flavourless. I am not sure I can eat them now after the huge bowl of Doki Doki See See Rider Ramen.


There are currently 6 comments - click to add

David on 2019-11-11 said:

Sunkus/circle k were all bought out and rebranded as family mart in 2017


adriana on 2019-11-11 said:

You forgot Sunkus in your convenience store list. Ramen looks oishii!


David on 2019-11-11 said:

Thanks for the info Melskius
Snow would make the steps more... fun


Melskius on 2019-11-11 said:

There are 1000 steps. Yamadera is the temple of 1000 steps. My 8yr old felt ripped off when she counted 960 steps. But yes it doesn't feel like it. We climbed with 5yr as well in February, so was snow covered.


mother on 2019-11-11 said:

old people can walk in Japan cos they don't rely on mobility scooters to get around. Will definitely need to go to Yamadera


m on 2019-11-11 said:


Day 18 - Tuesday, 12 November 2019

Hot and very windy

From Yamagata to Koriyama on the Shinkansen

Now I am in Koriyama. My last new stop on this trip. After here I will go back to Tokyo. It is about 20 degrees but blowing a gale forced wind. It better stop soon so I dont get blown off a mountain!

Getting here involved getting a train pass, getting a ticket, and getting the slowest Shinkansen in the world.

Getting an East Tohoku pass has been the biggest challenge of my trip so far, the office in Yamagata was closed Sunday and Monday, today it opened at 10AM. I was first in line.
By the time they opened there were 20 people in line, so I was glad I lined up 15 minutes early.
The process took 45 minutes! I thought the other people in the line would be angry at the stupid foreigner for taking so long, with all the photocopies and stamps and numerous bits of paper that I have never had to fill out before, so that they can be copied, stamped, laminated and filed. But no, I looked around at the other people seated at the other 3 counters, and they were taking just as long as me. Hopeless. Eventually my credit card was returned to me along with 3 receipts and my pass laminated on an A4 corrugated piece of cardboard.

Now for a couple of train reservations. Usually this take seconds, I write it all down, station from, station to, time, train number, date, day of week. Today that took another 20 minutes. The counter staff had to go line up at the one ticket machine and take turns to issue tickets to everyone. Very weird.

Then it was time for the half Shinkansen. It splits in half at Fukushima, I am north of Fukushima so I only had half a train. It was a very nice Shinkansen, but because it shares the tracks with the normal trains, it goes as fast as normal trains. You do however get a good view.

Now that I am in Koriyama, I have a huge hotel room, there are lots of places to eat, but later on tonight I will probably take ANOTHER SHINKANSEN 10 minutes up the tracks to Fukushima, as I can go anywhere for 'free' today as I am using the pass that took me so long to get.

Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Somehow I took a lot of very ordinary photos today. Here is the early morning streets of Yamagata on my way for breakfast.

Somehow I took a lot of very ordinary photos today. Here is the early morning streets of Yamagata on my way for breakfast.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Starbucks is the only thing open as always. Every school kid in the world is in here, being an absolute asshole. Bro hugs all round!

Starbucks is the only thing open as always. Every school kid in the world is in here, being an absolute asshole. Bro hugs all round!


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - The outside of the half of a Shinkansen.

The outside of the half of a Shinkansen.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - The inside seemed very new. Only 4 abreast seating, very comfortable.

The inside seemed very new. Only 4 abreast seating, very comfortable.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Now for some views from a moving train. The weather changed 3 times on my 200km journey.

Now for some views from a moving train. The weather changed 3 times on my 200km journey.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Nice mountain, window reflections. There were bigger mountains on the other side, but the sun was on that side so the blinds had been shut.

Nice mountain, window reflections. There were bigger mountains on the other side, but the sun was on that side so the blinds had been shut.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - I think this very flat looking city is called Akayu.

I think this very flat looking city is called Akayu.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Here is the view just out of Fukushima station, towards the mountains I would like to climb tomorrow. They are in cloud right now. Actually as I type

Here is the view just out of Fukushima station, towards the mountains I would like to climb tomorrow. They are in cloud right now. Actually as I type this in the late afternoon the sky is blue all around and it seems as though the very strong wind has stopped.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - This building houses a giant suspicious orb.

This building houses a giant suspicious orb.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Thats a lot of train tracks, and the orb building again. Beware the orb.

Thats a lot of train tracks, and the orb building again. Beware the orb.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Shrine number 1 of 2 in Koriyama.

Shrine number 1 of 2 in Koriyama.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - The streets here are not dead straight. A nice change.

The streets here are not dead straight. A nice change.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Shrine number 2 of 2 in Koriyama.

Shrine number 2 of 2 in Koriyama.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Another bendy street. Looks mostly shut, but also looks like mostly restaurants that shut in the afternoon between lunch and dinner. Maybe. Maybe its

Another bendy street. Looks mostly shut, but also looks like mostly restaurants that shut in the afternoon between lunch and dinner. Maybe. Maybe its just shut.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - I was too early as ever, so I did a few laps of the Yodobashi. Japan still sells discmans. I had one once, advertised as a mobile cd player. If you ev

I was too early as ever, so I did a few laps of the Yodobashi. Japan still sells discmans. I had one once, advertised as a mobile cd player. If you even looked at it funny it would skip. Useless.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - In Japan you can still try out in ear headphone / earbud things. Wax trading.

In Japan you can still try out in ear headphone / earbud things. Wax trading.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Behold the view out my hotel window. The window opens. It was damn hot in here.

Behold the view out my hotel window. The window opens. It was damn hot in here.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - A huge room, which even has a small table occupying the otherwise small amount of spare room available.

A huge room, which even has a small table occupying the otherwise small amount of spare room available.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - The nazi owner of APA is now up to volume 5 of his Theoretical modern history series. Volume 5 is very praising of Donald Trump. However my room is mi

The nazi owner of APA is now up to volume 5 of his Theoretical modern history series. Volume 5 is very praising of Donald Trump. However my room is missing Volume 2. This is unacceptable! How will I properly understand that I am genetically inferior to pure bred Japanese type o negative blood type people?


Fuku-Kori-Shima-Yama

A quick trip from Koriyama to Fukushima for dinner

I planned this trip by tracing train lines around Japan and stopping at mountainous areas near cities.
When I was working out where to stop on my way back from Yamagata, I had the choice of Fukushima or Koriyama. I read that Fukushima was a bit more industrial where as Koriyama is a bit more commercial. I dont know if that is true, time will tell.
Of course there is also the small matter that Fukushima is now infamous for glowing in the dark, however thats not really true. The nuclear powerplant is on the coast about 50km away, and its actually closer to Koriyama than Fukushima.

Anyway, despite the risk of attaining a super power, I used my 'free' activated train pass for today to re-board the Shinkansen back in the same direction I had earlier come from to check out Fukushima city. It is about 15 minutes away on the train, or about 50km. It is pretty cool to hop on a train and be in the centre of another city in 15 minutes.
I looked and did not see any radiation hazard symbols. People were openly eating vegetables. No one had a geiger counter. Rats did not have lasers for eyes. What I did see was a very busy colorful city. Lots of shops, lots of restaurants. Below are some pics, just for a change.

Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - When I arrived at Fukushima, I first exited the station on the wrong side. Actually there is still quite a bit to see on the wrong side, including thi

When I arrived at Fukushima, I first exited the station on the wrong side. Actually there is still quite a bit to see on the wrong side, including this 7-eleven owned mall, however the map suggested I needed to be on the other side.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - A lonely tunnel was all that stood between me and the correct side of the station.

A lonely tunnel was all that stood between me and the correct side of the station.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Here is the main street leading away from the station. It was very colorful.

Here is the main street leading away from the station. It was very colorful.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - An enticing blue tower awaited. I was drawn to it.

An enticing blue tower awaited. I was drawn to it.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - There is a whole network of streets to explore.

There is a whole network of streets to explore.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - This looks like the boutique shopping street. Very orange lighting. Very dug up brick paving.

This looks like the boutique shopping street. Very orange lighting. Very dug up brick paving.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - So if fry is fly what is french not flench? I ask the real questions.

So if fry is fly what is french not flench? I ask the real questions.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Its a full moon tonight. Tonight is the super blue double blood dragon wolf moon. Every full moon now has an idiotic name. Despite my best attempts to

Its a full moon tonight. Tonight is the super blue double blood dragon wolf moon. Every full moon now has an idiotic name. Despite my best attempts to out idiot the names that they are given lately, I think I still have not quite nailed it.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - I have wanted hot soba for days now. I gave up and had cold soba. It was still good, but it would have been better if the soba was in a bowl of hot so

I have wanted hot soba for days now. I gave up and had cold soba. It was still good, but it would have been better if the soba was in a bowl of hot soup!


There are currently 4 comments - click to add

David on 2019-11-12 said:

tempura was average, not enough vegetables


adriana on 2019-11-12 said:

french fly/flench fry - they can't tell the difference. My Japanese teacher who has lived in Australia for 30 years still can't get it right. How was the tempura?


David on 2019-11-12 said:

Yes.
I also eat food out of plastic packaging, fly on planes that spew carbon, live in a country that kills children in immigration detention centres, live in a state that promotes the killing of horses, eat in a casino that sends old people broke, subscribe to a tv service owned by rupert murdoch, wear t-shirts made in Bangladesh, use electronics made by orphan slave Chinese children, eat meat and eggs that probably came from farms that treat animals poorly, allow my mother to assist in ripping off poor foreign students.

Also, the APA owner and Shinzo Abe are pretty aligned in their thinking!


jenny on 2019-11-12 said:

you stay in a hotel chain that promotes dodgy ideas?


Page 7 will be more big mountains near Koriyama.

Contents

Day 1 - Saturday, 26 October 2019
  I do not care if I am late
  Bike pump
Day 2 - Sunday, 27 October 2019
  Still not in Tokyo
  Killing time in familiar places
  Finally ran out of puff
Day 3 - Monday, 28 October 2019
  Expensive trip to small mountain
  Sky Soba
Day 4 - Tuesday, 29 October 2019
  An entire forest just for me
  New and undercover
Day 5 - Wednesday, 30 October 2019
  Three peak party
  All the neon in all the places
Day 6 - Thursday, 31 October 2019
  The quiet river
  Busy but not as busy
Day 7 - Friday, 1 November 2019
  Au naturale hiking trail
  The station is so station
Day 8 - Saturday, 2 November 2019
  Surprise Buddha
  The town that got bypassed
Day 9 - Sunday, 3 November 2019
  A walk in the volcano park
  Takasaki has a lot of shops
Day 10 - Monday, 4 November 2019
  Staying the course
  Walkway to nowhere
Day 11 - Tuesday, 5 November 2019
  Quiet coastal city under construction
  Early night
Day 12 - Wednesday, 6 November 2019
  Fast run up an icy mountain
  Still quiet
Day 13 - Thursday, 7 November 2019
  Lagooning about
  Bus rapid transit
Day 14 - Friday, 8 November 2019
  Full range
  Once more to the station
Day 15 - Saturday, 9 November 2019
  A bridge between two tunnels
  Jacket time
Day 16 - Sunday, 10 November 2019
  Ice capades on magic mountain
  A rare event indeed
Day 17 - Monday, 11 November 2019
  Repeat visit
  Rain the other way
Day 18 - Tuesday, 12 November 2019
  Hot and very windy
  Fuku-Kori-Shima-Yama
Day 19 - Wednesday, 13 November 2019
  No ice just blue skies
  Lard noodles
Day 20 - Thursday, 14 November 2019
  Turtle hunt
  The opposite end of the aeon
Day 21 - Friday, 15 November 2019
  Back to the big city
  Off broadway
Day 22 - Saturday, 16 November 2019
  Dam dirty and noisy hike
  No sign of tension
Day 23 - Sunday, 17 November 2019
  Entry fee
  Expensive hamburger patty
Day 24 - Monday, 18 November 2019
  The most time consuming
  Favourite dinner
Day 25 - Tuesday, 19 November 2019
  Training day
  Double juku buya
Day 26 - Wednesday, 20 November 2019
  More landslides
  The last supper
Day 27 - Thursday, 21 November 2019
  Between flights
  The end