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Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Page 4

Day 10 - Monday, 4 November 2019

Staying the course

Walking along the abandoned Usui Toge Railway from Yokokawa

Today was my third trip down the Shin-Etsu line which heads into the mountains from Takasaki then ends at a dead end.
During my 2018 Japan visit, I went down this line, tried to climb Mount Myogi but could not as the path had collapsed.
In 2017 I went to the same place I went today, with every intention of doing what I did today, but when I saw a sign pointing up a mountain to Nakasendou, the ancient trail down the middle of Japan, I made a sudden detour and hiked all the way to surprise snow in Karuizawa fighting off Serows on the way.

So today I was determined to stay the course, and it was great. Because today is a public holiday, I set off early, beating the day tripping crowds coming from Tokyo, this was a great decision, as on the way back there were hundreds of people crowding to get a photo without other people.

The total walk was about 16km from Yokokawa, through 20 tunnels, over 10 bridges, around the lake, to the final accessible abandoned station and back again.

Once back at Yokokawa station I saw people buy a green ice cream from a little store, so I went in and tried to buy one. No. SOLD OUT! OK, nice English skills you have. So then I went and sat on the platform for 20 minutes and watched at least 10 other people buy a green ice cream. Cool.

Lots of photos today, lets get on with it.

Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Lots of train lines merge at Takasaki as I keep saying. However 2.5 of them are out of action still!

Lots of train lines merge at Takasaki as I keep saying. However 2.5 of them are out of action still!


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - A proud day indeed for this colorful city! Welcome Uzbeki ribbon tossers of inferior potassium.

A proud day indeed for this colorful city! Welcome Uzbeki ribbon tossers of inferior potassium.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Yokokawa station. It is very spectacular. I remembered from last time it was spectacular. Great weather today too.

Yokokawa station. It is very spectacular. I remembered from last time it was spectacular. Great weather today too.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - You can climb all of those mountains, from the other side at Mount Myogi. They have a reputation for killing many people.

You can climb all of those mountains, from the other side at Mount Myogi. They have a reputation for killing many people.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Quaint little street by the station. If only the vending machine guy would move his truck.

Quaint little street by the station. If only the vending machine guy would move his truck.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - There is a railway museum at Yokokawa. Here is one of the old trains being positioned for the tourist ride which goes a few hundred metres up the old

There is a railway museum at Yokokawa. Here is one of the old trains being positioned for the tourist ride which goes a few hundred metres up the old abandoned line.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - A bit more of the railway museum with a fantastic backdrop.

A bit more of the railway museum with a fantastic backdrop.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - It is easy to follow the trail, there are maps everywhere, and it is afterall an actual railway line. Here is a bridge and a view.

It is easy to follow the trail, there are maps everywhere, and it is afterall an actual railway line. Here is a bridge and a view.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - This is where last time I diverted onto a 4.5 hour hike through the bear infested woods. Last night on BBC Asia they had a story on the high number of

This is where last time I diverted onto a 4.5 hour hike through the bear infested woods. Last night on BBC Asia they had a story on the high number of bears in Japan, and how they are dealing with them... in Karuizawa! Which is just over this set of hills. They have special dogs that frighten them out of the town back into the mountains... where the hiking trails are!


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - I decided bears dont like tunnels, and kept to the tunnel trail.

I decided bears dont like tunnels, and kept to the tunnel trail.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - This is lake Usui. It is a slight detour from the trail, but worth it. There are three picturesque bridges to walk over. In the foreground is silt bui

This is lake Usui. It is a slight detour from the trail, but worth it. There are three picturesque bridges to walk over. In the foreground is silt building up that is being prevented from going over the dam and down stream. A recent study found this kind of silt build up at dams, especially hydroelectric dams which were previously thought to be green power, causes a lot of methane to be produced as all the organic matter sinks and decays ANAEROBICALLY. Without the dams leaves and stuff in streams decay aerobically, and release 13.8x less CO2 (equivalent). I did the maths.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Here is the aforementioned dam. Through that bridge you can see another bridge behind it. Magical.

Here is the aforementioned dam. Through that bridge you can see another bridge behind it. Magical.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Another bridge, and some kayakers. Hungry bears look on. Soon...

Another bridge, and some kayakers. Hungry bears look on. Soon...


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Annnnddd its another bridge. Such a small lake, so many bridges.

Annnnddd its another bridge. Such a small lake, so many bridges.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - But, tunnels outnumber bridges. All the rail sleepers have been removed and lighting has been added. The longest tunnel is just over 500 metres. The a

But, tunnels outnumber bridges. All the rail sleepers have been removed and lighting has been added. The longest tunnel is just over 500 metres. The acoustics were great, I did my usual repertoire of baby shark, all the single ladies, hammer smashed face.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - This is the main attraction along the trail You walk over the top of it and then down a stair case. Theres a large car park here for all the people to

This is the main attraction along the trail You walk over the top of it and then down a stair case. Theres a large car park here for all the people too lazy to walk to here. Shameful.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Its a nice bridge though so I took another photo.

Its a nice bridge though so I took another photo.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - And one more.... for now.

And one more.... for now.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - The longest tunnel had little windows to the outside world, with bear warnings hanging in them!

The longest tunnel had little windows to the outside world, with bear warnings hanging in them!


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - The end of as far as you can go is here. The station remains largely untouched, too hard to dismantle I think. Its a shame they dont re open the remai

The end of as far as you can go is here. The station remains largely untouched, too hard to dismantle I think. Its a shame they dont re open the remaining few kilometres to Karuizawa, I suspect the very long tunnel is too long to be safe for pedestrians. Interesting fact, the whole line including 20 or more tunnels and a similar number of bridges was built in only 18 months. People occasionally died from the coal smoke as the tunnels had very poor ventilation. A new blind system was invented, but was still almost useless. Hence this little bit of train track in the middle of Japan was the first electrified rail anywhere in Japan.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Here in the valleys, a bit of color has come, but its still not peak color. Last visit I was too late. The color comes late this year. I actually read

Here in the valleys, a bit of color has come, but its still not peak color. Last visit I was too late. The color comes late this year. I actually read that on a translated Japanese social media hiking website service thing yesterday, 'This year, late comes, all leaf color, I wait in patient, soon.'


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - On the way back, there were a lot more people getting in my way.

On the way back, there were a lot more people getting in my way.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - That is another more recent, but also closed alignment of the same rail line! Theres an entirely different set of abandoned tunnels.

That is another more recent, but also closed alignment of the same rail line! Theres an entirely different set of abandoned tunnels.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Here is the famous bridge again, new angle.

Here is the famous bridge again, new angle.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Here is my famous head again, same angle.

Here is my famous head again, same angle.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - And back almost all the way to Yokokawa are these buildings that have some kind of historical relevance. You can pay a steep fee of a thousand yen to

And back almost all the way to Yokokawa are these buildings that have some kind of historical relevance. You can pay a steep fee of a thousand yen to go inside, but I peered in the window and inside they seem to be piled up with concrete rubble. Now I am doing my washing, fun times.


Walkway to nowhere

Eastern side of Takasaki station and Korean food

Like many Japanese cities, the station is connected to nearby buildings by elevated walkways, these ensure all the stores on the street level get no customers ever again.
Tonight I went over to the other side of the station, checked out BIC Camera, then spotted an elevated walkway that went seemingly forever. I thought it must have been a monorail under construction, but no.
I was sure it must go somewhere, so I followed it, to the end. To nowhere. Then I walked back again. Quite the adventure.

Now for the fun fact of the day. I no longer use cash in Australia, ever. I have the same $100 in my wallet I withdrew before coming to Japan, last year, as emergency money. In Japan, I still have to use cash, their phone payment system is not compatible with non Japanese phones, even iphones have a different chip in Japan for their tap and pay thing. So I am now much more familiar with Japanese ATM's than Australian ATM's. That seems strange to me.

After my ATM visit and bewildering self-revelation I headed into the unfortunately named Labi, which is like BIC Camera but much bigger, and has restaurants on the 5th floor. Thats where I decided to be an edgelord and have Korean food. The restaurant was empty apart from me, due to the upcoming Korean / Japan war. Comfort girl movie is the main news story right now!

Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - This is the midpoint of the walkway to nowhere, station in the distance.

This is the midpoint of the walkway to nowhere, station in the distance.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - When you get to the end, theres this building, and a display home village. Perhaps this building is the local council.

When you get to the end, theres this building, and a display home village. Perhaps this building is the local council.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - The far side of the station and the aforementioned, LABI.

The far side of the station and the aforementioned, LABI.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Tomorrow in Australia is the annual horse killing festival that is a holiday in my state that I always miss. Huge vats of ice will be kept trackside,

Tomorrow in Australia is the annual horse killing festival that is a holiday in my state that I always miss. Huge vats of ice will be kept trackside, and any horse that needs to be shot in the head for not winning will be dipped in ice, loaded on the next plane and flown directly to Takasaki to be my dinner.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - I elected on the spicy raw horse and tofu stew. Negotiating what size rice I wanted had the waitress giggling uncontrollably for no apparent reason. S

I elected on the spicy raw horse and tofu stew. Negotiating what size rice I wanted had the waitress giggling uncontrollably for no apparent reason. SMAAAALLLLLLLLLL.


There are currently 5 comments - click to add

B on 2019-11-04 said:

Why no mention of the baby monkeys?


mother on 2019-11-04 said:

We used to eat horse meat in Holland when I was a child.


bobule on 2019-11-04 said:

very interesting but whats with the ice cream racist?


David on 2019-11-04 said:

You could probably make it


jenny on 2019-11-04 said:

most interesting walk so far.


Day 11 - Tuesday, 5 November 2019

Quiet coastal city under construction

Taking the Shinkansen from Takasaki to Niigata

Now I am in Niigata, it seems very quiet. I believe my hotel is in the busy part of town, called Furumachi, which is more than a kilometre from the station. Theres lots of covered streets and covered footpath things where they cover just the bit over the pedestrians, but it is so very very quiet. It does not look old and abandoned, it looks new and shiny, but there are no people and many places seem shut but not abandoned. There is also a lot of construction going on, even the local Mitsukoshi store is closed. Do stores close the first day after a long weekend I wonder? Like museums? That would be weird. OK I just looked this up, and Mitsukoshi is indeed closed on Tuesday, at least it is today which happens to be a Tuesday after a public holiday. So I will have to hold on my verdict as to whether or not Niigata is a zombieland.

The train from Takasaki to Niigata was only an hour, for some reason I thought it was 2 hours. I was also at the Takasaki station way too early, so I went to a local bakery, bought a pastry and a tea, and sat to eat it. The cashier girl came over and told me something in Japanese with a great deal of authority. I told her I only speak English. She made me get up and go over to see the tray return area, and the water dispenser, then asked me forcefully, UNDERSTAND? Yeah I understand. My description is not making it sound as weird as it was, she seemed very concerned that if I did not get myself a glass of water or return the tray, that she might get fired or killed.

Later in the day, while waiting to check into my hotel in Niigata, I saw a cool demolition site, in amongst all the similar demolition and construction sites in Furumachi. So of course, I took a photo. Next thing, two construction workers start running at me yelling, one of them was waving a hammer or a large spanner! I turned and ran off, and crossed the road as the lights were thankfully in my favour. They missed the lights, and being Japanese, would never ever jaywalk, even if they plan to kill a person. So they stood on the other side of the road and continued to yell at me! That was weird. The land where evey single camera company in existence today is based is banning all cameras.

Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - I was up early in Takasaki. Behold the beautiful tree lined streets! I saw them elsewhere doing this to the trees. They do this BEFORE the leaves chan

I was up early in Takasaki. Behold the beautiful tree lined streets! I saw them elsewhere doing this to the trees. They do this BEFORE the leaves change color and fall off. They were doing it in Niigata as well. Its easier than cleaning up the leaves.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - The Takasaki station area is vast.

The Takasaki station area is vast.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - They are really, really super excited about the visiting Uzbekistanian Uzbekistani Uzbek Uzi rhythmic gymnastics team.

They are really, really super excited about the visiting Uzbekistanian Uzbekistani Uzbek Uzi rhythmic gymnastics team.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - I climbed up the wall of the local arena to get a nice shot of the town. Who left the leaves on that tree?

I climbed up the wall of the local arena to get a nice shot of the town. Who left the leaves on that tree?


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Here comes a train. Not my train. This line has the double decker trains, I dont think I ever rode on one in Japan. This however is a normal, single l

Here comes a train. Not my train. This line has the double decker trains, I dont think I ever rode on one in Japan. This however is a normal, single level train.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - The station area was all but vacant. There is one guy on the other platform.

The station area was all but vacant. There is one guy on the other platform.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Here is a photo of Niigata. Those trees need to be cut down immediately!

Here is a photo of Niigata. Those trees need to be cut down immediately!


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - This is basically where my hotel is in Furumachi. It all looks nice and modern and colorful, but shut and without people.

This is basically where my hotel is in Furumachi. It all looks nice and modern and colorful, but shut and without people.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - There are underground shopping areas also, these are old, but still, abandoned or closed, apart from a second hand shoe shop!

There are underground shopping areas also, these are old, but still, abandoned or closed, apart from a second hand shoe shop!


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - I found the local market. Not a lot happening. One place is selling used bits of barbie dolls. Mainly pieces, not whole dolls.

I found the local market. Not a lot happening. One place is selling used bits of barbie dolls. Mainly pieces, not whole dolls.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - This is the demolition site mentioned above. Those two guys are the ones who chased me.

This is the demolition site mentioned above. Those two guys are the ones who chased me.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - And here is my hotel room. I know it looks similar to the last one, but its quite a bit bigger and much more comfortable as a result. The desk is much

And here is my hotel room. I know it looks similar to the last one, but its quite a bit bigger and much more comfortable as a result. The desk is much bigger too. Now I have a theory about the last hotel. I had a double room booked, but when I checked in, they asked me if I was just one person staying, and the check in girl thought it was unusual that I had booked a double room if I am on my own, she said as such. I think she changed me to a single room! Now I am going to check photos on their website..... hmm, inconclusive, they mainly have photos of the extensive collection of ear cleaning apparatus they provide to all guests.


Early night

Eating Ramen in Niigata

I have to get up early tomorrow, take the early Shinkansen half way back to Takasaki, take the early local train to the deepest station in Japan at Doai, run up a mountain and down again, and hopefully make the mid afternoon train back towards Niigata or it will be a 3 hour wait for the following train!
So I will go to bed early tonight.

To make sure I know where I am going tomorrow, I did a rehearsal run back to the station, using the bus rapid transit system, which is a bus. Its no different to any other bus. They seem to run every 8 seconds between Furumachi and the station, to thats my plan tomorrow, with enough time to spare to run to the station if theres no early buses.

The station area is nice and busy here in Niigata. Not so much the actual station, that is old and falling down, mostly boarded up, with temporary walkways, and signs that construction of a new station was halted in 1972. However the streets around it are all busy and colorful. I think the area I am staying in is the actual nightlife district, but a few streets over, I will check it out tomorrow.

I then found the in-between Niigata station and Furumachi shopping area, which is under a lot of construction, but features Aeon, Isetan, and a mall owned by Bridgestone. Which reminds me, theres a famous tyre museum in Niigata. If its raining on any of my days here, then thats where I am going! Historic tyres.

Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Signs of life.

Signs of life.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - More signs of life.

More signs of life.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Lots of places to eat.

Lots of places to eat.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - That is NOT OK in 2019.

That is NOT OK in 2019.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Niigata has some malls. Although theres a lot of construction in and around them.

Niigata has some malls. Although theres a lot of construction in and around them.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Isetan exists, but something called the rainbow tower that all the travel sites talk about is now PERMANENTLY CLOSED.

Isetan exists, but something called the rainbow tower that all the travel sites talk about is now PERMANENTLY CLOSED.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - My ramen tonight was a bit different. Quite thick noodles. Small chunks of what I assume was pork, but I have no idea. I only eat things floating in r

My ramen tonight was a bit different. Quite thick noodles. Small chunks of what I assume was pork, but I have no idea. I only eat things floating in red liquid now.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - And right by my hotel, heres a modern covered shopping street. Very well lit. No people. Maybe tomorrow?

And right by my hotel, heres a modern covered shopping street. Very well lit. No people. Maybe tomorrow?


There are currently 4 comments - click to add

jenny on 2019-11-05 said:

still not many people.


David on 2019-11-05 said:

Probably taking bribes


bobule on 2019-11-05 said:

mmm yummy looking ramen! i wonder whats up with the construction men?


adriana on 2019-11-05 said:

i will have to have a word with them next time i get interviewed by the local mayor and tell them what we think of their tree butchering.


Day 12 - Wednesday, 6 November 2019

Fast run up an icy mountain

From Doai station to Mount Tanigawa and back in 4.5 hours

Lots and lots of photos today, so I will do most of my boring nonsense dribbling with the photos.

In summary, today was one of my best hikes ever, definitely top 3.
The vertical gain was greater than when you climb Fuji from the 5th station bus stop.
Snow fell on me, a rarity.
I made it to the summit and back without using the cable car in 4.5 hours, 20 minutes to spare before the train left.
This gave me enough time to properly explore Japan's deepest train station.

Now onto the many many pics.

Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - I was out the door at 6AM, and surprise rain had arrived. This was not part of the plan!

I was out the door at 6AM, and surprise rain had arrived. This was not part of the plan!


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - As I went further south on the fast train, it was still raining a bit, but starting to clear up.

As I went further south on the fast train, it was still raining a bit, but starting to clear up.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - I think this is Nagaoka, sun starting to break through.

I think this is Nagaoka, sun starting to break through.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Sunshine! The dark clouds on one half and bright sun on the other provided a great twilight effect. I am getting better at taking photos from a moving

Sunshine! The dark clouds on one half and bright sun on the other provided a great twilight effect. I am getting better at taking photos from a moving Shinkansen. When you read my Japan trips, the drinking game is Shinkansen. Each time I say it, drink.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - By the time I got to Doai station, it was very bright. Doai station has two platforms, this one above ground, and the other one, which is the deepest

By the time I got to Doai station, it was very bright. Doai station has two platforms, this one above ground, and the other one, which is the deepest in Japan for trains heading North. You will see it later as I went back towards Niigata from that platform.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - The first part of my journey was to run really fast up the hill on the regular road to the bottom cable car station. I had set myself a time limit, 2.

The first part of my journey was to run really fast up the hill on the regular road to the bottom cable car station. I had set myself a time limit, 2.75 hours max to get to the summit or turn back. I was making hay will the sun was shining at this point thinking it might rain later, going as fast as I could. Heart rate hit 175, my watch got angry.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - I followed the access road up to the top cable car station, heres proof I did not take the cable car. The access road is hard going, it can only be dr

I followed the access road up to the top cable car station, heres proof I did not take the cable car. The access road is hard going, it can only be driven on by things with caterpillar tracks. It is very steep and very rocky. A few times big rocks slid out from under my feet as I ran up it.... yes I ran where I could.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Looking back down the rocky path. Rain was coming! I had options if the weather turned really bad, stop at the top cable car station and catch it back

Looking back down the rocky path. Rain was coming! I had options if the weather turned really bad, stop at the top cable car station and catch it back down being the least desired plan.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - I was gaining height very quickly. The hike starts at about 600 metres and ends at 2000 if you make the summit. The top cable car station is about 120

I was gaining height very quickly. The hike starts at about 600 metres and ends at 2000 if you make the summit. The top cable car station is about 1200m. So if you take the cable car you skip a lot of the challenge! DONT BE WEAK!


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Its raining on the next mountain over, which I also wanted to climb a few days ago but went to the volcano instead.

Its raining on the next mountain over, which I also wanted to climb a few days ago but went to the volcano instead.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - I arrived at the top cable car station after just over an hour, which included 5 minutes of stuffing about at the bottom getting on the right track. T

I arrived at the top cable car station after just over an hour, which included 5 minutes of stuffing about at the bottom getting on the right track. There are a few ski fields up here, but the big mountains are to the right of this pic and the big ski fields are further down the valley. I did not even stop here, had to keep going!


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Looking back down on the cable car / ski resort. This part of the trail was nice and smooth, with wooden planks in many places. It is a very popular t

Looking back down on the cable car / ski resort. This part of the trail was nice and smooth, with wooden planks in many places. It is a very popular trail from the top cable car station to the summit, however I was the only person who ran up from the station.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - I was headed up there, into the cloud. Well I was hoping to, as long as it didnt rain too hard and I had enough time to get there. Also, another rainb

I was headed up there, into the cloud. Well I was hoping to, as long as it didnt rain too hard and I had enough time to get there. Also, another rainbow. I was still running wherever I could at this point, soon it would get steeper. Under the rainbow there, that steep cliff, that is one of the most challenging ice rock cliff climb things in Japan. If you read about Mount Tanigawa you will read that it has killed over 800 people, more than Everest. This is largely from the ice climbing and also avalanches in winter. You can ignore all that if you are climbing it in hiking weather.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Views started to appear. Amazing views. They would only get better.... until I entered the cloud that is.

Views started to appear. Amazing views. They would only get better.... until I entered the cloud that is.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Lower down view in the other direction. Somehow the rain never arrived. I was very relieved, and puffing hard.

Lower down view in the other direction. Somehow the rain never arrived. I was very relieved, and puffing hard.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Bonus view.

Bonus view.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Getting higher.

Getting higher.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Still blue sky.

Still blue sky.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Now the steep parts started. There were ropes and chains but no ladders. They were not really needed, but have been added to this hike due to its popu

Now the steep parts started. There were ropes and chains but no ladders. They were not really needed, but have been added to this hike due to its popularity. I saw a lot of other people even though its a weekday with questionable weather.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - The view is starting to get pretty serious now.

The view is starting to get pretty serious now.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - This one is looking back down in the direction I had come from. I like the silvery trees and shrubs, caused by the icy winds.

This one is looking back down in the direction I had come from. I like the silvery trees and shrubs, caused by the icy winds.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Even though I am only going up to the first peak in the range, which I think is highest, you can continue on for many days of camping over all those p

Even though I am only going up to the first peak in the range, which I think is highest, you can continue on for many days of camping over all those peaks. There are huts along the way to set up camp inside. The range is the border between Gunma and Niigata. The weather can change very suddenly.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Another look down the valley.

Another look down the valley.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - And the other valley.

And the other valley.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Now to keep going into the cloud and towards the summit.

Now to keep going into the cloud and towards the summit.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - It was getting very steep! But it was not very windy. So far...

It was getting very steep! But it was not very windy. So far...


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - I hit the cloud, and it started snowing. Not enough to show on the ground though. Even though I was only wearing a long sleeve tshirt, I was not cold,

I hit the cloud, and it started snowing. Not enough to show on the ground though. Even though I was only wearing a long sleeve tshirt, I was not cold, despite it being about 0 degrees. The key is to keep going as fast as possible.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Ice started to appear. Thankfully not enough for me to be worried about slipping.

Ice started to appear. Thankfully not enough for me to be worried about slipping.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - About 100m below the summit is this emergency hut. I think its where you are supposed to camp for the first night on multi day hikes.

About 100m below the summit is this emergency hut. I think its where you are supposed to camp for the first night on multi day hikes.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Here I am on the summit. It was very windy on the summit, and very cold. I was ahead of schedule, but no time for happy snaps. I could not do THE STAN

Here I am on the summit. It was very windy on the summit, and very cold. I was ahead of schedule, but no time for happy snaps. I could not do THE STANCE because my camera would probably blow off the mountain. I am wearing my favourite, oldest long sleeve t-shirt that has appeared in many shots on the top of mountains.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - ICE ICE BABY.

ICE ICE BABY.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - For my fast descent I had to put my camera in my bag and put my gloves on so I could use my hands to lower myself down rocks. On the way down I went b

For my fast descent I had to put my camera in my bag and put my gloves on so I could use my hands to lower myself down rocks. On the way down I went back past a number of people I passed on my way up. They were very chatty, making triangles with their hands and asking Peak? Yes? And when I said yes they would clap. These were mostly older women. They like me on mountains because clearly I am not in Japan to impregnate their daughters if I am climbing a mountain. They would probably let me have an ice cream. Anyway I got distracted, this photo is proof I DID NOT take the cable car back down. I ran back down, fast.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - I was early back to the station. This is part of the station, a pedestrian footbridge going into the mountain, where the giant straight down staircase

I was early back to the station. This is part of the station, a pedestrian footbridge going into the mountain, where the giant straight down staircase starts.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Before hitting the stairs, I checked out the chalet shop. A nice spot. I wonder if they stay open all winter or if they get completely snowed in?

Before hitting the stairs, I checked out the chalet shop. A nice spot. I wonder if they stay open all winter or if they get completely snowed in?


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Here is the actual station. There is no staff. You can not use SUICA/ICOCA. I am using my Nagano/Niigata all areas travel pass so I didnt have to worr

Here is the actual station. There is no staff. You can not use SUICA/ICOCA. I am using my Nagano/Niigata all areas travel pass so I didnt have to worry about buying a paper ticket. There is a ticket inspector woman on the train and she seemed to catch a few people that got on at other stations. My pass was checked twice in both directions, riding for free is not an option if you plan to steal from Japan!


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - I am assuming that sign says its 486 steps. There is no lift, there are no escalators.

I am assuming that sign says its 486 steps. There is no lift, there are no escalators.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Here is the inside of that pedestrian walkway I showed the outside of before. It could fall down any day now.

Here is the inside of that pedestrian walkway I showed the outside of before. It could fall down any day now.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Steps, all the way down. No bends, no turns, just a straight down staircase. They are all in groups of 5 with a mini landing after every 5 steps. Ever

Steps, all the way down. No bends, no turns, just a straight down staircase. They are all in groups of 5 with a mini landing after every 5 steps. Every 50 steps they have painted a number. It sounds like a lot of steps but its really not that many. I went half way back up again as I had time.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Heres the view from the bottom looking back up again.

Heres the view from the bottom looking back up again.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - The deep, deep platform. People come here in the middle of the night and go ghost hunting. They also come in the day time to check out the steps. You

The deep, deep platform. People come here in the middle of the night and go ghost hunting. They also come in the day time to check out the steps. You can see other people in my photos of the steps, but none of them actually boarded the train, I was the only person who got on the train at this station. I am lead to believe on average only 22 people a day use this station, that number includes the top and bottom stations.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - There is a toilet at the bottom. I have no idea where it drains to. Theres no door on it!

There is a toilet at the bottom. I have no idea where it drains to. Theres no door on it!


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - The waiting room is filled with hungry / angry ghosts.

The waiting room is filled with hungry / angry ghosts.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - I walked to the end and took a long exposure, nothing much to see. I aint afraid of no ghosts.

I walked to the end and took a long exposure, nothing much to see. I aint afraid of no ghosts.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - The local train took me back to EchigoYuzawa where I changed back to the Shinkansen. This is a very popular onsen town and ski resort. The main ski fi

The local train took me back to EchigoYuzawa where I changed back to the Shinkansen. This is a very popular onsen town and ski resort. The main ski fields are a few km away, I saw lots and lots of huge hotels on the sides of hills, and lots of chair lifts. No snow yet though. Because its such a popular spot, the station has lots of high end shopping for tourists.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Out in the street people were soaking their feet in volcanic boiling water. Hopefully its hot enough to kill tinea.

Out in the street people were soaking their feet in volcanic boiling water. Hopefully its hot enough to kill tinea.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - The station forecourt is not really representative of the Yuzawa area, the much fancier hotels are all on the ski fields. The station is built on the

The station forecourt is not really representative of the Yuzawa area, the much fancier hotels are all on the ski fields. The station is built on the side of a hill.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - The shops inside the station however, are all very nice.

The shops inside the station however, are all very nice.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - On the bullet train back to Niigata, clear blue sky again! I missed all the weather apart from some welcome snow. Actually, all of a sudden the train

On the bullet train back to Niigata, clear blue sky again! I missed all the weather apart from some welcome snow. Actually, all of a sudden the train got wet like we hit a sudden downpour, but I think we went through a train wash.


Still quiet

Hunting for dinner in Furumachi

Niigata has no people.
Well the station area does, but the Furumachi area, at night, has basically none.

Apparently its the red light district, its mainly private bars that do not want any new customers and a few sit on the floor restaurants with closed sliding doors and no menus. Basically they made it as uninviting as possible.
As far as it being a red light district goes, I saw signs, they had one of those Yakuza collecting a commission INFORMATION shops that give out tips on where to find debauchery. I imagine the tip was to give up and go home.

I was determined to find a dinner that was not curry and was not ramen, there were a couple of options for those, I really just wanted hot soba and tempura vegetables, but I could not even find that. Eventually I found something. I couldnt keep looking for any longer, my legs are giving out!

Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Photo for my mother. They have hung little quilted things under the pedestrian walkways all over town. Hundreds of them. Most of them are not very goo

Photo for my mother. They have hung little quilted things under the pedestrian walkways all over town. Hundreds of them. Most of them are not very good!


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Red light district.

Red light district.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Most shops were shut at 7pm, this one was quite nice and still open. I bought a few handbags, geisha face paint, toe slippers.

Most shops were shut at 7pm, this one was quite nice and still open. I bought a few handbags, geisha face paint, toe slippers.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - This is now officially the quietest street in the world.

This is now officially the quietest street in the world.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - There are a few small alleys with lights on, but nobody home.

There are a few small alleys with lights on, but nobody home.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Down this alley is where the demolition site is where those guys threatened me with a big spanner.

Down this alley is where the demolition site is where those guys threatened me with a big spanner.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - This restaurant serves pork. Or maybe its a brothel with ugly girls.

This restaurant serves pork. Or maybe its a brothel with ugly girls.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - The underground mall thing was close to abandoned. If I waited a couple of minutes I am sure I would have got a shot with zero people.

The underground mall thing was close to abandoned. If I waited a couple of minutes I am sure I would have got a shot with zero people.


Japan for the 9th time - Oct and Nov 2019 - Heres my dinner. It was tiny and quite expensive. It is not curry or ramen. It came from Royal Host, which you can find all over Japan. I nearly got s

Heres my dinner. It was tiny and quite expensive. It is not curry or ramen. It came from Royal Host, which you can find all over Japan. I nearly got some kind of baked stew with cheese on top, but they were nice enough to show how many calories were in each item. 1200 calories in cheesey stew! Only 600 calories in my tiny pork thing with vegetables.


There are currently 2 comments - click to add

adriana on 2019-11-06 said:

Don't know why Niigata is soo quiet. We couldn't get accommodation there in January when we were there. maybe they only come alive during the ski season.


mother on 2019-11-06 said:

Well you have outdone yourself today. Very nice contrasty mountain photos and a haunted train station in the middle of a mountain!


On page 5 I am still in Niigata before heading across the mountains by slow train to Yamagata.

Contents

Day 1 - Saturday, 26 October 2019
  I do not care if I am late
  Bike pump
Day 2 - Sunday, 27 October 2019
  Still not in Tokyo
  Killing time in familiar places
  Finally ran out of puff
Day 3 - Monday, 28 October 2019
  Expensive trip to small mountain
  Sky Soba
Day 4 - Tuesday, 29 October 2019
  An entire forest just for me
  New and undercover
Day 5 - Wednesday, 30 October 2019
  Three peak party
  All the neon in all the places
Day 6 - Thursday, 31 October 2019
  The quiet river
  Busy but not as busy
Day 7 - Friday, 1 November 2019
  Au naturale hiking trail
  The station is so station
Day 8 - Saturday, 2 November 2019
  Surprise Buddha
  The town that got bypassed
Day 9 - Sunday, 3 November 2019
  A walk in the volcano park
  Takasaki has a lot of shops
Day 10 - Monday, 4 November 2019
  Staying the course
  Walkway to nowhere
Day 11 - Tuesday, 5 November 2019
  Quiet coastal city under construction
  Early night
Day 12 - Wednesday, 6 November 2019
  Fast run up an icy mountain
  Still quiet
Day 13 - Thursday, 7 November 2019
  Lagooning about
  Bus rapid transit
Day 14 - Friday, 8 November 2019
  Full range
  Once more to the station
Day 15 - Saturday, 9 November 2019
  A bridge between two tunnels
  Jacket time
Day 16 - Sunday, 10 November 2019
  Ice capades on magic mountain
  A rare event indeed
Day 17 - Monday, 11 November 2019
  Repeat visit
  Rain the other way
Day 18 - Tuesday, 12 November 2019
  Hot and very windy
  Fuku-Kori-Shima-Yama
Day 19 - Wednesday, 13 November 2019
  No ice just blue skies
  Lard noodles
Day 20 - Thursday, 14 November 2019
  Turtle hunt
  The opposite end of the aeon
Day 21 - Friday, 15 November 2019
  Back to the big city
  Off broadway
Day 22 - Saturday, 16 November 2019
  Dam dirty and noisy hike
  No sign of tension
Day 23 - Sunday, 17 November 2019
  Entry fee
  Expensive hamburger patty
Day 24 - Monday, 18 November 2019
  The most time consuming
  Favourite dinner
Day 25 - Tuesday, 19 November 2019
  Training day
  Double juku buya
Day 26 - Wednesday, 20 November 2019
  More landslides
  The last supper
Day 27 - Thursday, 21 November 2019
  Between flights
  The end