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Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - Page 7

Day 19 - Thursday, 3 November 2016

Dull hysteria

A day trip from Hakodate to Onuma Koen

Hakodate is small. So small that it only has one department store and thats mostly closed down. Small enough that the main station which is where I am staying really only has 2 platforms. Small enough that most people stop here for a few hours and go up the top of the hill I ran up in the dark before moving on.
Aside from the nearby hill / mountain, the 2 tourist attractions are a western style fortress shaped like a star with moats for no apparent reason, or the hysterical leaf mecca of Onuma Koen.
Unfortunately, it is raining, snowing, sleeting, and raining, and cold as hell. So I thought the best plan was to go walk around a freezing lake and stare at leaves in the dull grey freezing weather and see if I could contract a severe case of hysteria.

Getting to the leaf zone was no issue, I have 1 spare day out of 6 planned on my excellent value east south hokkaido jr east and some areas of west but not west shinkansen and also some private lines but not nikko pass. Seriously these passes are confusing, but on any 6 days in a 2 week period I can ride any JR trains for that day anywhere between Sapporo and Tokyo.
So even though its only 30 minutes each way, without the pass that would have been $30, and I would not have bothered. With the pass I can get soaking wet for 'free'.

Once I got off at the station, it was raining hard. Then it snowed really hard! Nothing was open yet. I paced around pretending I wasnt wet, and a fried things on sticks smoking cafe opened. The good news was that I was their only customer, and they served hot cocoa. So I sat and had that for 30 minutes and stared at the really heavy snow / rain combination hybrid HELL STORM raining down on the parking lot.
Unfortunately, a bus pulled up full of old Japanese men, who walking framed there way in to eat some fried dough on sticks and chain smoke whilst hacking up a lung each. The place filled with smoke fast, I had to leave!
Japan has a serious lung cancer problem, in every train bits of lung are flying across the carriages and I am convince each time someone will die and the traiin will be delayed.

I decided to follow the walking trails in the rain, and thankfully it soon let up a little, enough that I could hide under falling leaves and convince myself I was not wet. The great thing was because of the weather, it was just me.
Even though I am too late for real hysteria by a couple of weeks, I still thought the place looked amazing. More so when you realise they basically built it, and even more so when you realise it was completely destroyed multiple times by volcanic eruptions, see photos below! Unfortunately due to the very low cloud I could not photograph leafs plus lakes plus lava for the LLL combo.

Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - I had a bit of time to kill before my train, so I went to the morning wet market. And looked at squid.

I had a bit of time to kill before my train, so I went to the morning wet market. And looked at squid.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - Turns out there are multiple buildings unconnected that are all part of the wet market general area of fish smelling dead things.

Turns out there are multiple buildings unconnected that are all part of the wet market general area of fish smelling dead things.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - This is what greeted me at Onuma, dull, bleak, wet, closed.

This is what greeted me at Onuma, dull, bleak, wet, closed.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - These are real dead Hokkaido bears taxidermied however you spell that. They are taller than me. I was confident there were none roaming around this AA

These are real dead Hokkaido bears taxidermied however you spell that. They are taller than me. I was confident there were none roaming around this AAA certified tourist zone.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - Then, epic snow for a long time.

Then, epic snow for a long time.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - Still snowing, but I thought I would set off into the snow and rain and take photos with my freezing hands anyway.

Still snowing, but I thought I would set off into the snow and rain and take photos with my freezing hands anyway.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - But it did look awesome. I imagine it would be at its best, 2 weeks earlier, with sunshine, and snow. I am not asking for much.

But it did look awesome. I imagine it would be at its best, 2 weeks earlier, with sunshine, and snow. I am not asking for much.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - There are lots of little islands with the trees planted on them linked by bridges.

There are lots of little islands with the trees planted on them linked by bridges.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - There are also ducks. On nicer days most people row a boat around and get off on the little islands and cough up a lung whilst eating cuttlefish and c

There are also ducks. On nicer days most people row a boat around and get off on the little islands and cough up a lung whilst eating cuttlefish and cheese snack.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - Well, thats a broken rule. A tourist bridge that is not red.

Well, thats a broken rule. A tourist bridge that is not red.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - More view.

More view.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - 2 bridges that are not red.

2 bridges that are not red.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - Photo of the day I think.

Photo of the day I think.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - Rain had all but stopped by now.

Rain had all but stopped by now.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - I think there are about 12 bridges in total that I went over. Some were very slippery even though there was no ice. They would be deadly with ice on t

I think there are about 12 bridges in total that I went over. Some were very slippery even though there was no ice. They would be deadly with ice on them.
Also in winter, all these lakes freeze and you can ice skate, ride snow mobiles, shoot bears.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - I believe all this is somewhat man made, and needs constant dredging, there were 3 such areas being repaired with heavy machinery.

I believe all this is somewhat man made, and needs constant dredging, there were 3 such areas being repaired with heavy machinery.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - The visitor centre had some excellent images of the last volcanic eruption, this was taken just an hour or so after. As you can see everything is dest

The visitor centre had some excellent images of the last volcanic eruption, this was taken just an hour or so after. As you can see everything is destroyed.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - The mountain, which I photographed yesterday, has erupted over 50 times since the 17th century, and is closed to hikers. It last erupted in 2008 which

The mountain, which I photographed yesterday, has erupted over 50 times since the 17th century, and is closed to hikers. It last erupted in 2008 which significantly changed the shape of the summit area, but did not destroy the leaf viewing lake area like previous eruptions.


The final freeze

Exploring the Hakodate fortress at night

Apart from a brief period between coffee and train station tomorrow morning, tonight is officially my last chance to freeze to death on my holiday.
Probably my last chance to freeze until next winter in Melbourne, although you never know, maybe I have to go to somewhere else in the northern hemisphere between now and then.
Sendai is my next stop, and it was 19C there today, practically shorts weather.
Hakodate did not disappoint, still 0 degrees. But it tricked me. Late in the afternoon the rain stopped, so I set out for a long walk through the dark abandoned streets. At precisely the furthest point of my travel from anywhere, it started raining.
So not only did I manage to freeze, I managed to get wet again, also hopefully the last time on this holiday.

This evening I walked to the western fortress which is pentagram shaped and has a tower built near it for tourists to pay $10 to go up and gawk at the pentagramness of the fortress below.
The area where this fortress is can be considered the other city centre of Hakodate. It is smaller than the one I am staying at, but I had to visit anyway to make sure.
It takes nearly an hour to walk there, and there is even another department store there, but its mainly karaoke bars and pachinko parlours, and of course a fortress.
According to over 300 signs I have seen advertising the bullet trains arrival to Hakodate, this fortress is the only one of its kind in the northern part of Japan that is made of concrete. So rare!
It was built by the Japanese under the guidance of the French to protect the city from possible invasion by the Russian navy.
The only time it saw action was as part of a Japanese civil war. So as usual everyone is afraid of the Russians when the real enemy is within.

Today the fortress is famous for cherry blossoms. Well not today, wrong season, tonight it had a group of joggers running around it, just about the only other people I saw all night.

Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - Hakodate is the type of city where people go hang out at the giant supermarket, which they drive to. I was out at 5:30pm and there were no people, so

Hakodate is the type of city where people go hang out at the giant supermarket, which they drive to. I was out at 5:30pm and there were no people, so they do not walk home from work, they all drive.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - Because everyone drives there are petrol stations. However Japan likes its petrol fresh, and has installed an oil refinery at the pump.

Because everyone drives there are petrol stations. However Japan likes its petrol fresh, and has installed an oil refinery at the pump.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - After about an hour of walking, I came to a main street of sorts. It had lights. There were a few places to eat along here, but mainly small bars, clo

After about an hour of walking, I came to a main street of sorts. It had lights. There were a few places to eat along here, but mainly small bars, closed off from the street.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - I found the other department store, and was able to enter just before closing time at 7pm. It seems they make their own clothes here, on a loom.

I found the other department store, and was able to enter just before closing time at 7pm. It seems they make their own clothes here, on a loom.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - The quality of this store is highly questionable. You may recall previous amazement on my behalf at basement food halls in Japan. This is what we get

The quality of this store is highly questionable. You may recall previous amazement on my behalf at basement food halls in Japan. This is what we get in Hakodate. I think they have learned from the Russia of old. Line up for bread, when bread runs out, go home.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - The brightest and biggest thing around is the karaoke bar. I saw some guys come out of here DRUNK, drunk enough to be staggering in the traffic. At 7:

The brightest and biggest thing around is the karaoke bar. I saw some guys come out of here DRUNK, drunk enough to be staggering in the traffic. At 7:30pm.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - You might recall last night I took a photo inside hamburger chain store Lucky Pierrot, and commented on how big it was, and that there were other iden

You might recall last night I took a photo inside hamburger chain store Lucky Pierrot, and commented on how big it was, and that there were other identical stores within a few hundred metres of each other.
They are everywhere, heres a map on one of their stores. They have 15 stores in Hakodate, a city of barely 200,000 people. Your choices for dinner in Hakodate are Lucky Pierrot, the convenience store, or raw fish they couldnt sell earlier in the day.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - The fortress. It is dark here, so I used my night vision goggles.

The fortress. It is dark here, so I used my night vision goggles.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - This is the tourist tower for the observation of the former fortress culturally significant sakura viewing area platform. Closed as far as I could tel

This is the tourist tower for the observation of the former fortress culturally significant sakura viewing area platform. Closed as far as I could tell. Not that I was going to pay the fee anyway.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - I managed to find a non Lucky Pierrot meal. This is a multi level food village opposite the fort, I elected for ramen again, but only because they had

I managed to find a non Lucky Pierrot meal. This is a multi level food village opposite the fort, I elected for ramen again, but only because they had one thats different.
It is half noodle, half bean sprout, with lots of mushrooms and wood fungus. It was excellent. Very happy with my choice.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - Final photo for the night, if you dont feel like hanging out at the supermarket, you can pick one of the many many huge drug stores with parking areas

Final photo for the night, if you dont feel like hanging out at the supermarket, you can pick one of the many many huge drug stores with parking areas that are found all over the city. I dont understand how the population can keep all of these going.


There are currently 2 comments - click to add

jenny on 2016-11-04 said:

Sendai looks like my kind of town. Only been in the station passing through before. the kid with the blond hair and the megaphone looks like a right wing maniac - Japanese Nazi, though I think he is a bit confused with the blond hair.


adriana on 2016-11-04 said:

nice blue sky today.


Day 20 - Friday, 4 November 2016

Under the sea

Taking the Shinkansen under the sea from Hakodate to Sendai

Now I herald my arrival to Sendai. My second to last stop, and my last new city as my last city is Tokyo which was also my first city and also a city I have visited many times unlike Sendai which I have not visited before.
To get from Hakodate to Sendai, requires 2 trains and an ocean crossing, on the train. There is a tunnel under the ocean, and under a mountain on each side, it is over 50km long, and is about 100 metres below the ocean floor, and travels through volcanoes in an earthquake prone region.
Despite how awesome that sounds it was boring, it is only the second best under ocean crossing in Japan that I have performed personally, the best was the Shimonoseki to Kita-Kyushu under sea pedestrian tunnel from my trip this time last year.
I am sure the people of Hakodate would be devestated to learn this news, as its all they have. I also declared the hill that looks over Shimonoseki to be superior to the hill that looks over Hakodate. Its like I have a personal vendetta.

I dont have a personal vendetta, in fact I thought Hokkaido was excellent, I would like to go there again, with a car, in warmer weather, and climb lots of closed volcanoes. That will be when you get to hear the term pyroclastic flow on the news again, every few years the news writers grab ahold of that term and news readers get to say it endlessly.
The next time you hear pyroclastic flow will be when I have been pyroclasticized in Hokkaido, also the name of my upcoming live album of christmas favourites.

Todays double train journey was less frusrating than the previous one, but overall it was still 3.5 hours. You have to change trains at Shin Hakodate, which is in a farmers field 25km north of the city.
Then on the bullet train, an old woman with all kinds of parcels piled high sat in front of me, and fell asleep. And when the train would tilt to go around corners, her pile would topple. She would then say things to me and look angry as I helped her reassemble her pile. On the third such toppling she moved seats, on an all reserved seating train.
Then we stopped at a station, and of course she was in the seat of someone who just boarded, so more grumbling, and she had to return to sit next to me and talk more crap about how rude I am to herself.
I presume one of the announcements on the train today was an apology from the conductor for all the foreigners (me and only me) on the train today.

Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - In my brief jog through the frozen streets of Hakodate before leaving this morning, I stopped to examine a skill tester game. The prizes are a plastic

In my brief jog through the frozen streets of Hakodate before leaving this morning, I stopped to examine a skill tester game. The prizes are a plastic crab, or a rubber fish. I spent 3000 yen but failed to win a new pet.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - A bit more of the 'factory' area which is tourist shops and starbucks. This time featuring leaves of course.

A bit more of the 'factory' area which is tourist shops and starbucks. This time featuring leaves of course.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - This is Hakodate station, all of it. A rail official asked me to go back downstairs.

This is Hakodate station, all of it. A rail official asked me to go back downstairs.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - Shin Hakodate station, it really is in a farmers field, nice view though.

Shin Hakodate station, it really is in a farmers field, nice view though.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - And from the bullet train level you can see some ice on top of the hill. That ice was not there when I arrived here a couple of days prior.

And from the bullet train level you can see some ice on top of the hill. That ice was not there when I arrived here a couple of days prior.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - This is my bullet train. I think I have taken the same style long nose strange green colored one on a previous trip or maybe even this trip, I forget.

This is my bullet train. I think I have taken the same style long nose strange green colored one on a previous trip or maybe even this trip, I forget.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - There is an awesome view to admire, here it is. A concrete wall inches from your window.

There is an awesome view to admire, here it is. A concrete wall inches from your window.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - And now I am going under the sea in the Seikan tunnel. It is just like all other tunnels through mountains, only after a while the windows fogged up,

And now I am going under the sea in the Seikan tunnel. It is just like all other tunnels through mountains, only after a while the windows fogged up, due to all the sea water sloshing about being melted by the hot brakes on the train.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - First gap in the view defeating wall on the Honshu side I snapped a photo, here it is. Already looks warmer.

First gap in the view defeating wall on the Honshu side I snapped a photo, here it is. Already looks warmer.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - The wall was lowered a bit where there was nothing to see, such as here.

The wall was lowered a bit where there was nothing to see, such as here.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - One of two major cities along the way is Morioka, the platform is elevated so there is a view, I celebrated with a photo.

One of two major cities along the way is Morioka, the platform is elevated so there is a view, I celebrated with a photo.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - And another, looks nice and colorful outside.

And another, looks nice and colorful outside.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - And now, here I am in Sendai. Thats my hotel on the right, basically joined onto the station, another Daiwa Roynet, next door to the Yodabashi. I woul

And now, here I am in Sendai. Thats my hotel on the right, basically joined onto the station, another Daiwa Roynet, next door to the Yodabashi. I would say the location is perfect. Even has a seven eleven in the foyer for me to get money out of an ATM at.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - My room. They all look the same now, but Daiwa Roynet has probably been nicer than APA.

My room. They all look the same now, but Daiwa Roynet has probably been nicer than APA.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - I love their room keys, they print you a new one when you check in, with all your details on it, its disposable. They always work. The stupid magnetic

I love their room keys, they print you a new one when you check in, with all your details on it, its disposable. They always work. The stupid magnetic cards I get at hotels across Australia fail at least once per week.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - The Sendai station doesnt look like much on the outside, but I was quite amazed at how large it is underneath. Never seen so many restaurants in a sta

The Sendai station doesnt look like much on the outside, but I was quite amazed at how large it is underneath. Never seen so many restaurants in a station, theres more here than in Shinjuku.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - One of the busy streets from an overpass, there are overpasses going everywhere.

One of the busy streets from an overpass, there are overpasses going everywhere.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - I was starving, so I had a waffle. Seriously, I ate that. A common feature of dessert places in Japan is to cover things with strings of icing like on

I was starving, so I had a waffle. Seriously, I ate that. A common feature of dessert places in Japan is to cover things with strings of icing like on my waffle. Its actually a bit of an illusion, there is cream and ice cream under the icing.
The nut looking things are chestnuts, I think. They are soft with a very unusual texture.
I did not really enjoy my waffle, I am not a waffle person. I only enjoy waffles when they are served to me by a creepy old nazi fellow who spends 23 minutes explaining to me in slow motion how he killed people and has an inbred family and thats why his waffles are genuine.


Nights of the warming lights

Discovering the covered shopping streets of Sendai

Sendai has lots of lights, and lots of shops, and lots of warmth, too many restaurants, lots of people, and no tourists besides myself that I can recall seeing.
I am here for 3 nights, there is no shortage of places to wander around of an evening and do nothing. Perhaps more than there appears to be in Sapporo.
Sapporo has a lot more underground and a larger city area, Sendai has densed it all together above ground and added lighting. I think its better than underground, but I think that when its not cold. Once its below say, 3 degrees, underground is awesome.

The main food of choice in Sendai, this cities famous food that every Japanese city has its version of, is grilled beef tongue. They grow cows here, cut their tongues out, and throw the rest of the cow away.
The only beef you can buy is tongue, any other part of the cow is inferior and should be avoided at all costs.

Strangely absent in Sapporo were the cars driving blocks with loud speakers blasting political messages. They are back. As was a new kind of solo message screaming blonde haired boy, photo below.
There is also another big boss guitar store to add more anger on top of my building anger about how terribly terribly pathetically historically bad Australian guitar stores are in comparison.
Then to talk about the weather, it is about 10C at night, so still cool enough for my jacket, but there is no need to walk around with my hands in my pockets, which makes me look dodgier than I already look by walking around in the same pair of camo pants for days at a time.

Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - Covered mall number 1 of many. Higher quality than all those that have come before it, even including Kyoto.

Covered mall number 1 of many. Higher quality than all those that have come before it, even including Kyoto.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - Idiot screaming on the corner, with his poor friend holding the flag. He had no one paying him any attention, so I did. However I think given the flag

Idiot screaming on the corner, with his poor friend holding the flag. He had no one paying him any attention, so I did. However I think given the flag he was probably screaming about people like me and how we should be executed for polluting their superior gene pool.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - Another covered shopping street, this one has trees inside, and an apple store, but no apple trees.

Another covered shopping street, this one has trees inside, and an apple store, but no apple trees.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - Eventually it becomes quasi outdoor, with the roof coverings only running down each side.

Eventually it becomes quasi outdoor, with the roof coverings only running down each side.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - Running off the sides of all these are plenty of bright lights featuring slightly less family friendly establishments, and pet shops.

Running off the sides of all these are plenty of bright lights featuring slightly less family friendly establishments, and pet shops.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - You can also stand in the middle of the road and look at the leaves, only they are not lit up here, no colors of the night.

You can also stand in the middle of the road and look at the leaves, only they are not lit up here, no colors of the night.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - Then I got attacked by a pedobear. A huge pedobear. Also his new friend, pedobunny.

Then I got attacked by a pedobear. A huge pedobear. Also his new friend, pedobunny.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - For dinner I went to my old favourite Ootoya. You can find these in other countries too, I always get the same thing which I think is tofu, or chicken

For dinner I went to my old favourite Ootoya. You can find these in other countries too, I always get the same thing which I think is tofu, or chicken, or fish, or a blend of all three deep fried, I have no idea what it is, the lotus root is what appeals to me for some reason.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - Final street mall is the christmas tree mall.

Final street mall is the christmas tree mall.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - Now for some impressive street corners and buildings, contrasting with my memories of Hakodate last night and its karaoke bar.

Now for some impressive street corners and buildings, contrasting with my memories of Hakodate last night and its karaoke bar.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - Uniqlo has their christmas lights in full beaming lightness already.

Uniqlo has their christmas lights in full beaming lightness already.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - Taxis wait in line at the station, I am able to stay away from them by using the complex assortment of pedestrian overpasses.

Taxis wait in line at the station, I am able to stay away from them by using the complex assortment of pedestrian overpasses.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - The local loft building is enormous, and has a cake buffet.

The local loft building is enormous, and has a cake buffet.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - Wow, Din Tai Fung. Have I been to one in Japan before? I genuinely cant remember. The map shows they have them in 10 cities here now. I have definitel

Wow, Din Tai Fung. Have I been to one in Japan before? I genuinely cant remember. The map shows they have them in 10 cities here now. I have definitely been to one in China, Singapore and Korea. I dont know how much it is here, I probably wont find out because even though its quite late, there was a line and a 30 minute wait.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - Time for a quick lap of the Tokyu Hands to look at the magnetic sand penis.

Time for a quick lap of the Tokyu Hands to look at the magnetic sand penis.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - And as a bonus, here is my seven eleven dessert. It has mandarin in it, that I knew. I had no idea what the white jelly was. But given the low number

And as a bonus, here is my seven eleven dessert. It has mandarin in it, that I knew. I had no idea what the white jelly was. But given the low number of calories in the whole thing I was not expecting sweet.
It was almost flavourless white jelly.
Perhaps this is where the non tongue parts of the cow went, to the flavourless white jelly convenience store dessert factory.


There are currently 2 comments - click to add

jenny on 2016-11-04 said:

Sendai looks like my kind of town. Only been in the station passing through before. the kid with the blond hair and the megaphone looks like a right wing maniac - Japanese Nazi, though I think he is a bit confused with the blond hair.


adriana on 2016-11-04 said:

nice blue sky today.


Day 21 - Saturday, 5 November 2016

White flag

Hiking along the canyon from Omoshiroyama to Yamadera

Today I had to wave the white flag and retreat back down a mountain I did not even intend to climb.
The plan was to go to a remote station with a train once every 3 hours and hike along a very popular tourist friendly ravine then along a road to the next station where there is a series of temples up a 1000 step path up a different mountain.
It is Saturday, the weather is amazing, my train was packed full of everyone else doing the same thing.
I got off with everyone else at Omoshiroyamakogen, and we all wondered why the train only makes 3 stops here a day, especially on weekends. Lots of other trains go past but they do not stop, more on that later because that situation is idiotic.
So I am standing looking at the map of the ravine, thinking to myself its really not very far, and an overly excited and happy American who is there with his 3 young friends charges over to me, and without asking any other question, proceeds to excitedly yell, 'WHAT CHURCH DO YOU BELONG TO?!?!???!!!'
My answer, none, get lost. The way his face went from a huge smile to sadness was perfect. Not another word was spoken between us.

I now decided to alter my plans, and climb the mountain, instead of walking along the ravine with a thousand other people. If time permitted, I would come back down the mountain, then walk along the ravine (assuming enough remaining light), then jog along the road in the dark to the next station where the trains are more frequent.
Big day! Luckily I had water and calorie mate.
The sign suggested the mountain would take 4 or 5 hours up and back.

So off I set, excited. The I slipped and removed skin from one knee, then I did the other, I had gone only a few hundred metres, it was so slippery going up the creek which I assumed, pay attention now... I assumed was the path.
Then I broke the thing on my camera that holds the strap on, its metal but still it snapped, and so my camera went flying. After I slid down to get it, still holding the strap and case in my hand, surprisingly the camera was still fine. I have been thinking for years I will smash the camera soon. It buzzes and does weird stuff sometimes but still works.
I kept trying to get up this steep rock waterfall / creek, which was moss, icy water and billions of leaves. After slipping and sliding a few more times, I decided to give up, a few hundred metres in well over an hour!
Now to get down, that was fast, I slid down and got very wet, and used my bum to slow my descent. I am not sure how I didnt wear through my Chinese army pants.
I was now within site of being back at the road where the sign pointed to the start of the path, and I saw two other people start the climb (presumably they came by car as no train had come), and thats when I saw it, no more than 10 steps from the road, the path went hard right, it did not follow the icy slippery dangerous creek I had battled for hours. Why do I keep missing obvious paths at the very start of each journey?

So I was defeated! I lost the battle with the mountain, there was now no time, instead I enjoyed the ravine almost to myself, then ran along the road to the next station, then climbed the 1000 steps, and took way too many photos in the excellent weather.
Since returning I have transferred the strap from the right side of my camera to the left side, so its good to go again!

Now what will I be doing tomorrow then? I will be returning to this station, and climbing the mountain I never originally intended to climb, ensuring I turn right 10 steps from the road!
I may have lost the battle but I will not lose the, yeah you know how that goes.

I did my best to cut as many photos as possible from below!

Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - What a great day, no cloud, very blue sky, to the ravine, or mountain, or actually the ravine!

What a great day, no cloud, very blue sky, to the ravine, or mountain, or actually the ravine!


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - The train leaves later than I would like, so I had to wander around the huge very busy station looking at stain glass windows.

The train leaves later than I would like, so I had to wander around the huge very busy station looking at stain glass windows.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - It is a small unattended station in between two long tunnels. The express train back took way longer than the local train there as it kept stopping in

It is a small unattended station in between two long tunnels. The express train back took way longer than the local train there as it kept stopping in random spots where theres 2 tracks to let trains going the other way pass. Stopping for 10 minutes at a time, instead they should just stop at the stations and pass at stations and go to the station that everyone wants to go to more often. Station.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - There will be colors today. And views, lots of views.

There will be colors today. And views, lots of views.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - Just some of the tourists enjoying the colors. I think at least 300 people got off at the station, most are descending below this bridge into the ravi

Just some of the tourists enjoying the colors. I think at least 300 people got off at the station, most are descending below this bridge into the ravine to enjoy the views. (Color / Station / View).


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - So I decided instead to go up the mountain first, or instead, depending on time. Missing the path was silly, I do it a lot, and dangerous, sliding dow

So I decided instead to go up the mountain first, or instead, depending on time. Missing the path was silly, I do it a lot, and dangerous, sliding down was kind of uncontrollable, but fun!


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - This is near the point I decided to turn around. White flag waived. Nice colors.

This is near the point I decided to turn around. White flag waived. Nice colors.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - More colors from a place on a mountain nowhere near any path.

More colors from a place on a mountain nowhere near any path.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - Last one of these, perhaps no human has been here before!

Last one of these, perhaps no human has been here before!


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - And back by the road is the actual path, with people going up, and steps and ropes. I was annoyed at myself. I blame the leaves, I was obviously dazzl

And back by the road is the actual path, with people going up, and steps and ropes. I was annoyed at myself. I blame the leaves, I was obviously dazzled by their amazing colors and suffered from temporary sign eclipsia.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - Oh well, into the ravine we go, no chance of getting lost here.

Oh well, into the ravine we go, no chance of getting lost here.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - There are 4 waterfalls to admire, with leaf colors.

There are 4 waterfalls to admire, with leaf colors.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - It is rocky and a little slippery, but they have cut a very good path into the rocks.

It is rocky and a little slippery, but they have cut a very good path into the rocks.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - A rare sighting of another human. You cross the river at least 10 times on bridges of various construction. This guy was just hanging around all day w

A rare sighting of another human. You cross the river at least 10 times on bridges of various construction. This guy was just hanging around all day with his tripod waiting for his favourite leaf to be illuminated just how he wants it.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - More bridges.

More bridges.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - And a fun bouncy suspension bridge, with some of the rotten wood replaced, but not all of it. How do they decide when its rotten enough to replace? Wh

And a fun bouncy suspension bridge, with some of the rotten wood replaced, but not all of it. How do they decide when its rotten enough to replace? When someone falls through presumably.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - More colors and path. Not much else to say.

More colors and path. Not much else to say.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - Cameras still do not do bright sky and dark ravine anywhere near as well as the human eye.

Cameras still do not do bright sky and dark ravine anywhere near as well as the human eye.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - Nice path.

Nice path.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - Another waterfall. The internet is full of photos using light filters or ND filters I think they are called to make the water look like milk, cause th

Another waterfall. The internet is full of photos using light filters or ND filters I think they are called to make the water look like milk, cause thats the only use for the filters they bought.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - Looking back.

Looking back.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - Bright sun now, making photos even trickier. Good view though. I wish my camera had a viewfinder to look at the view though.

Bright sun now, making photos even trickier. Good view though. I wish my camera had a viewfinder to look at the view though.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - Another one looking back.

Another one looking back.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - This one is here because you can see the train track at the top. I stood hoping a train would come past, none did.

This one is here because you can see the train track at the top. I stood hoping a train would come past, none did.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - Last one from in the ravine.

Last one from in the ravine.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - One last bridge and then steps to get out.

One last bridge and then steps to get out.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - Last part is a small tunnel, too low to stand up straight in.

Last part is a small tunnel, too low to stand up straight in.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - From up here I could see tomorrows mountain which defeated me today.

From up here I could see tomorrows mountain which defeated me today.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - Now a 5km run down this nice road through a forest. Very refreshing. My damp bum provided a cooling influence behind me.

Now a 5km run down this nice road through a forest. Very refreshing. My damp bum provided a cooling influence behind me.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - Sometimes the forest got out of the way of an excellent view.

Sometimes the forest got out of the way of an excellent view.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - Another awkward selfie.

Another awkward selfie.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - Getting close to the town of Yamadera now, such great views.

Getting close to the town of Yamadera now, such great views.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - The temple and tourists, thousands of them. The stairs up the mountain side were slow going as lots of old people are making the ascent.

The temple and tourists, thousands of them. The stairs up the mountain side were slow going as lots of old people are making the ascent.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - You have to keep Japanese Jesus happy with paper windmills and little dolls.

You have to keep Japanese Jesus happy with paper windmills and little dolls.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - I studied the map, it did not look far. I had read about how this is a soul destroying climb. Pffft. You can even buy a stick and have it stamped at e

I studied the map, it did not look far. I had read about how this is a soul destroying climb. Pffft. You can even buy a stick and have it stamped at each temple on the way up.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - I pushed to the front of the queue of people taking photos of this tree with tripods, ladders and huge cameras.

I pushed to the front of the queue of people taking photos of this tree with tripods, ladders and huge cameras.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - One of the temples.

One of the temples.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - Another one, and the one with the best view, but not the top one, which did not have such a great view, hence I return to this one later, dont worry y

Another one, and the one with the best view, but not the top one, which did not have such a great view, hence I return to this one later, dont worry you will understand.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - Great view.

Great view.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - The top temple photo didnt even make it onto the page, instead, heres the viewing deck and lots of people in the temple with a view.

The top temple photo didnt even make it onto the page, instead, heres the viewing deck and lots of people in the temple with a view.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - The view away from the preferred side for view, viewing the view towards the city of Yamagata.

The view away from the preferred side for view, viewing the view towards the city of Yamagata.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - Todays best view, word of the day is view, it trumped ravine which I thought would be word of the day.

Todays best view, word of the day is view, it trumped ravine which I thought would be word of the day.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - The temple town of Yamadera is nice, you can go and splash in the open sewer.

The temple town of Yamadera is nice, you can go and splash in the open sewer.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - And whilst waiting for the train, tomorrows mountain stares at me, mocking my failure. I typed todays update really fast because the train back took s

And whilst waiting for the train, tomorrows mountain stares at me, mocking my failure.
I typed todays update really fast because the train back took so damn long and I am starving, hope it makes sense! Maybe I will even re read it and update it later to include more uses of the word view.


Cheesey

The dining options of Kokubuncho in Sendai

After getting back from the ravine view day on the late train, I was starving. As soon as the photos were uploaded and I had typed some nonsense it was time to hit the road again in search of a meal.
My right knee is quite sore from sliding and slipping on it today, photo evidence below, hopefully its ok tomorrow for the mountain climb.
This evenings route took me into the station to find dinner as quickly as possible, having only eaten calorie mate during the day, then I did a big loop around the shopping area of the city, which is dense but compact, and ended up in the real red light district.

In Sendai this is called Kokubuncho, but it is referred to as bunbun on all the 'establishments' and therefore all the girls are bunnies.
The average evening in Sendai involves schoolgirls changing into half naked bunny costumes and making men buy them $20 glasses of water whilst buying themselves $20 glasses of Vodka / Sake / Highball (whatever the hell that is) whilst the girl wiggles her bunny tail at you after you pay $100 for the hour.
To entice you into these establishments, boys too young to go inside are instead provided weird looking suits, perms for their blonde hair and pointy shoes to stand in the street and look tough handing out flyers.
Then once you are drunk enough, the African guys with diplomatic immunity will suddenly appear, and explain to you how much the bill is, and produce a wireless credit card machine for you to settle the 'exit fee'. Unlike nearly all other credit card reading machines in Japan, the African mafia ones take every card, no problem.
I think the last bit of that involving the Africans only happens to white guys, they leave the Japanese alone.

Anyway, my vice was a coke zero and taking photos of the street and wearing the same camo pants that I slid down a muddy hill in earlier.

Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - Immediate dinner required. The place I selected had a sign out the front with a nice looking grilled chicken breast salad. So I ordered that. They hav

Immediate dinner required. The place I selected had a sign out the front with a nice looking grilled chicken breast salad. So I ordered that. They have run out...apparently. Instead I was told to select the combo super awesome special deal.
This occurred only after I was seated and had drunk the free water. So I tried to select healthy things in the combo deal, 1/2 serve pasta and 1/2 serve gratin was on offer. What came out was a cheesey (there it is, the title reference!) and oily mess.
I guess it was quite delicious, but I wanted healthy!


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - You notice in Japan that no matter where you are, they have these blind person tiles everywhere. They have them inside some shops even. I am still wai

You notice in Japan that no matter where you are, they have these blind person tiles everywhere. They have them inside some shops even. I am still waiting to find one to follow up a mountain. I can never find the path even though I am not blind.
Anyway, I like to walk on them, its a free foot massage, and whilst doing so I jumped out of the way of a blind person. Then I wondered, what happens when two blind people meet?
When their canes smack together do they stop and discuss blind people interests? Or is it a fierce rivalry to prove you are the superior blind person?
There once was a ridiculous movie involving a blind guy doing kung fu.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - Now I have selected my dinner for tomorrow night. The bottom thing, which I am sure is mapo tofu. The reason I want it - on the window they have a hug

Now I have selected my dinner for tomorrow night. The bottom thing, which I am sure is mapo tofu.
The reason I want it - on the window they have a huge matrix chart where you can choose how much numbing Sichuan Pepper and how much spicy Chilli you want. Bottom right quadrant of the matrix for me.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - Red light district main street.

Red light district main street.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - Sign explaining the bunbun bunnyness of the area.

Sign explaining the bunbun bunnyness of the area.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - Heading back to the hotel after my long loop around the city.

Heading back to the hotel after my long loop around the city.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - Heres my knee. The sore part is not where the skin is missing, its on the side. Must have bruised it except I dont bruise. It does not hurt when walki

Heres my knee. The sore part is not where the skin is missing, its on the side. Must have bruised it except I dont bruise. It does not hurt when walking anyway. Thats enough about my injuries.


Visiting 9 cities in Japan - Oct and Nov 2016 - Tonights dessert, green tea flavoured fake cream in a cup. I love anything green tea flavoured. It tastes just a little bit like dirt, mixed with gras

Tonights dessert, green tea flavoured fake cream in a cup. I love anything green tea flavoured. It tastes just a little bit like dirt, mixed with grass.


There are currently 1 comments - click to add

adriana on 2016-11-05 said:

Love the ravine photos. Try not to fall down any more mountains.


Continued on page 8, will there be a page 9 too?

Contents

Day 1 - Sunday, 16 October 2016
  Magpie attack!
  Landing gets you half way there
Day 2 - Monday, 17 October 2016
  Splashing about in tunnels
  Green motorbike birth place
Day 3 - Tuesday, 18 October 2016
  I saw it!
  Used and Organic
Day 4 - Wednesday, 19 October 2016
  Naga-no-yes
  Public convenience
Day 5 - Thursday, 20 October 2016
  Not too early for color
  Still just a station
Day 6 - Friday, 21 October 2016
  It happened again
  City in decline
Day 7 - Saturday, 22 October 2016
  Huge hotel room
  Places to eat
Day 8 - Sunday, 23 October 2016
  Volcanic gas panic
  Famous food and plenty of parking
Day 9 - Monday, 24 October 2016
  Castles gardens and tourists
  Its a real city
Day 10 - Tuesday, 25 October 2016
  Racing the rain that never was
  NO PHOTO Bigot
Day 11 - Wednesday, 26 October 2016
  Slow train to big city
  They actually finished one
Day 12 - Thursday, 27 October 2016
  Canyon mountain
  Repeat visits
Day 13 - Friday, 28 October 2016
  New airport day
  Wheely good time
Day 14 - Saturday, 29 October 2016
  No smog yes people
  So happy to give information please sit
Day 15 - Sunday, 30 October 2016
  Terrible sign failure
  Pre halloween
Day 16 - Monday, 31 October 2016
  Captives
  Baseball legend
Day 17 - Tuesday, 1 November 2016
  Dam it
  Flipping my own food
Day 18 - Wednesday, 2 November 2016
  Fight for your right for a view
  Running with the buses
Day 19 - Thursday, 3 November 2016
  Dull hysteria
  The final freeze
Day 20 - Friday, 4 November 2016
  Under the sea
  Nights of the warming lights
Day 21 - Saturday, 5 November 2016
  White flag
  Cheesey
Day 22 - Sunday, 6 November 2016
  Lets try that again
  Damp pants
Day 23 - Monday, 7 November 2016
  Last stop
  Tourists outnumber locals
Day 24 - Tuesday, 8 November 2016
  Glay
  So shiny
Day 25 - Wednesday, 9 November 2016
  Now they are rubbish
  Button security
Day 26 - Thursday, 10 November 2016
  For the sake of completeness
  The end