23 April 2023
Underground railway to a wall on a hill
Dongdaemun, Hyehwa and Naksan
Rest day today. I found somewhere to go I have not been to before. To get there I went to somewhere I have been to many times before, and my journey to that spot went along a path I have taken once before, allow me to elaborate.
Seoul has a huge underground network of shopping streets and tunnels connecting subway stations. The longest point to point journey goes from City Hall station, where my hotel is, to Dongdaemun station, home of the design and culture park, which is 5 stations away. Today I walked that journey underground in both directions, in perfect weather. I think you are supposed to use these in bad weather, like when it is -30c in winter, but if you are doing it for the love of its existence, the weather is irrelevant. By my measurement, the total distance from one extreme to the other is 3.25km.
After I emerged back to the above ground world, it was time for a quick lap of the Dongdaemun design cultural plaza by Zaha Hadid etc. (the most photographed thing in Seoul), before I headed uphill to a new to me part of town at Hyehwa. This is where there are many theatres, galleries, trendy cafes, and most importantly, a hill with a wall on it with a view.
The underground route still contains the piano staircase, which encourages you to jump 8 or 9 stairs at a time to play various tunes. Over 13 people have died attempting moonlight sonata here.
I was relieved that the underground display of tools and light bulbs remains. I am still in a bit of shock from yesterday when they took away my stance duck on Namsan.
There are lots of eclectic stores along the underground journey.
Among the areas of stores dedicated to various things is an entire section of old camera shops.
There are also parts without shops, just liminal space. Apparently liminal is not a real word despite being supremely popular lately.
The last section of underground is dedicated to shops full of places that make sporting clothes with your local teams logo on them.
I exited the underground at Dongdaemun design plaza, this child was chasing pigeons. I thought the photo would be better than it is.
A lot of shiny metal, and unusable internal space.
The roof does however have grass.
In addition to the metal, there is also a huge amount of polished concrete.
Last one.
My journey now crossed my beloved drain, lined on both sides with clothing manufacturers.
The gate in the middle of the road signals the start of the journey up the hill.
A very Japanese style thin apartment building.
One side of Hyehwa is shopping and restaurant streets marketed to University students.
The other side is all the theatres and art galleries. Also related to nearby arts universities.
However, there is Jami the Hong. I know for a fact the Hong in Hong Kong means 'fragrant' so basically this place is called Jami the smell.
While we are on about smells, you might recall a few weeks ago I showed a take your own photo place with reviews about how the place really captured the fragrance? Well apparently, there are places in Korea that capture your fragrance? This seems obscene.
One of the streets on the theatre side of Hyehwa.
The main theatres (since 1981) are a network of these red brick buildings.
It was now time to wander up Naksan for the view. It has a theatre too.
A view, without wall.
Now for some wall shots. Still pollution free today, check out the mountains.
That is the direction I had come from... largely underground.
Some more wall.
Alongside the wall are a lot of retro style hipster cafes.
Descending the last part of the wall, and I am back at the gate in the road and the Dongdaemun plaza, ready to head back underground.
For my last shot of this day, I once again crossed my favourite drain, which also has clothing manufacturers on both sides in this direction too.